(4) To Baste For Fitting

(a) Follow directions for basting shirtwaists. Seams on wrong side, p. 96.

(b) Gather across back within two inches of the underarm seams and on the fronts from the center to within three inches of the underarm seams.

5. To Fit. - (a) Place the corset cover on the figure for which it is being made.

(b) Lap box plait over hem; pin.

(c) Draw gathers to place at waist, being careful to keep underarm seam in good position; fasten around a pin.

(d) Fit according to the directions followed in fitting shirtwaists, p. 97. Be extremely careful of the lines at the neck and armhole. These must be especially good, when worn under a lingerie waist.

6. Seams. - (a) Hemmed fell, turned toward front, first stitching to show right side on top of seam.

Fig. 162. - Suggestions for decoration of corset cover.

(b) Trim underside very narrow, so that the finished seam will be very neat.

(c) Entre-deux may be used as finish for seam. Place entre-deux between edges of seam, using very narrow French seams for finish.

7. Box Plait and Hem. - (a) Stitch box plait and hem by hand or machine; the box plait may be featherstitched instead, if desired.

8. Tucks. - (a) Finish tucks; fasten thread on underside of garment, taking two stitches and passing needle through loop of second stitch.

9. Waist Band. - Cut band in one piece, three to four inches longer than waist measure, and twice the desired width plus seams; then:

(a) Find the center of the length of the band and crease firmly. Also find the joins for center front by measuring from the center of the belt, one-half the waist measure toward each end; crease. Mark the creases with line of small stitches.

(b) Place the right side of the band to the right side of the corset cover, center of band to center back of garment; pin the center front of the band to the center of box plait and hem; measure the band to the end of box plait and hem, fold back one inch and cut the remainder away. See that the gathers in the back are so adjusted that the underarm seams are the same distance from the center back on both sides of the center, pin to place.

(c) Pin plain part of corset cover to band first, then adjust the gathers, distributing them very carefully. Baste on gathering thread; keep them the same distance from edge of band throughout. Try garment on to be sure the adjustment is correct.

(d) Stitch band to garment, letting stitching come just outside basting. Trim seam, turn, and crease very hard.

(e) Turn in edge and ends of second piece of band, baste to wrong side of garment, hem (vertical hemming) each gather down to band.

10. Peplum. - (a) Finish the bottom of the peplum with a very narrow hem, which being bias, should be pressed between the fingers, not creased as in a straight hem.

(6) Place the centre of the upper edge of the peplum to the center of the waist band, right sides of peplum and garment together ; baste, trimming ends of peplum so they will allow a narrow hem like the lower, edge, yet just meet in the center. Stitch seam; turn in lower edge of under band with marks together; hem to the peplum.

11. Neck. - (a) French hem, beading, lace and featherstitching. Fold a very narrow hem to right side of garment, etc. (see p. 251, for description of finish).

12. Armhole. - (a) Same finish as neck, omitting the ribbon beading, and holding lace a little full, especially each side underarm seam.

Fig. 163. - French corset cover, hand-embroidered eyelets and design.

(b) Featherstitching may be applied to hem on neck and arm-hole, in keeping with the decoration of the box plait. Other types of decoration might be chosen, suggestions for which are shown in Fig. 162. The corset cover shown in Fig. 163 is a good model of fine French embroidery and eyelets, the design as it is outlined being very graceful and dainty. The price of the garment was $2.25. It was purchased in Switzerland. The price paid there for labor is very small.

13. Fastenings. - (a) Buttons: The size of the buttons should be in keeping with the width of the plait or hem in the opening. Too large a button mars the effect of the whole plait. A button the diameter of which is one-quarter inch is a good size, for a plait three-quarter inch in width. The kind and number of buttons depend on individual taste; three to five, according to the length of the garment from waist to neck line, the top button being about one and one-quarter inches from the neck line, the bottom button the same distance from the waist line. Linen-covered buttons or good pearl buttons with two or four holes are satisfactory kinds to use. The pearl button called a "fish eye" button is very smooth, easy to fasten and attractive. For method of sewing on, see p. 226.

(b) Buttonholes are cut lengthwise in front openings; crosswise in back openings of corset covers and underbodices. Those with bars at each end are preferable because of their strength. For method of making, see page 224.

14. Ribbons. - In drawing ribbon through the beading or footing, be careful not to twist it. Use wash ribbon, lingerie braid, linen bobbin, or crochet cord.