This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Hemmed or stitched fells are used on drawers. Stitch and finish the seams of the legs (one-quarter inch finished). Baste center seam (leave until fitted, after which stitch and finish like other seams). Darts the same, turning them all toward the front.
The upper part of open drawers is faced with bias strips of material cut one and one-quarter inches wide (see bias cutting, p. 391). Join strips. Place right side of strip to right side of drawers; baste one-quarter-inch seam and stitch. Open, crease firmly, and turn facing to wrong side, baste along seam edge. Turn in opposite edge one-quarter inch, baste, and hem to drawers.
Cut the placket on line indicated for it in the pattern. It is sometimes the center of a dart. One or two plackets may be cut in closed drawers; if one is used, cut it from nine to eleven inches ; if two, cut them from seven to nine inches.
Fit garment before applying facing. Use the continuous placket facing (1) described on pp. 244 - 245.
Try drawers on to see that the length, minus the ruffles, is correct; also that the garment fits smoothly at the waist line. If too full, take out extra amount in darts.
Finish remaining seams and darts (see above).
Join the strips for the ruffle by overhanding; if raw edges, use very narrow French seam, or hemmed fell. Decorate ruffle with hem, shaped and featherstitched (Fig. 166). Mark quarter divisions on ruffles and edge of drawers. Gather ruffles with double thread, four sections; stroke or pull gathers. Place seam of ruffle to seam of drawers at cord of entre-deaux, two right sides together, with other divisions meeting. Baste with small stitches, letting the gathers come close to the cord of the entre-deux. Stitch, remove basting, and trim edge of ruffle to less than one-eighth inch. Trim entre-deux to within three-eighth inch of cord, turn in one-eighth inch, and hem to stitching of first seam to ruffle, making a bound seam.
Cut and join bias strips of material one and one-quarter inches wide. (See bias cutting, p. 391.) Place right side of facing to right side of drawers; baste one-quarter-inch seam; stitch, open and crease sharply; fold to wrong side, baste on seam edge; turn in opposite edge one-quarter inch; baste and stitch.
Cut a lengthwise strip of material the waist measure, plus the width of the extension on the placket facing and two inches for turning in at the ends of the band, by two inches wide. Turn in the ends of the band and baste. Place the right side of the band to the wrong side of the garment, the end of the band to the end of the extension. Pin band to place, baste one-quarter inch seam and stitch. Turn in other edge of band and place folded edge directly on the first stitching; baste and stitch all around band, close to edge. When two plackets are used, the belt must be cut in two pieces, an allowance made in each end of each piece for turning back, and also on the front band for the facing extension. The front band will be longer than the back.
One four-holed button on the ends of the front band at each placket, with buttonhole barred at each end on the ends of the back band, are sufficient to fasten the garment. Tapes are sometimes used to fasten drawers about the waist.