(A) Plain Hem

The edge to be hemmed must be trimmed evenly; then fold toward the wrong side one-eighth to one-quarter inch, depending on the width of the hem; crease the fold firmly and fold again the required depth; use cardboard marker to measure the depth of the hem. Very narrow hems may be gauged by the eye. Finish: The sort of garment and material will determine the kind of finish for the top of the hem. It may be finished by running, hemming (Fig. 110), machine stitching (Fig. 124), with hemstitching, fagoting, featherstitching, or chain-stitching (see chapter on

Fig. 122. - Overhanded or French fell.

Embroidery), the upper edge of the hem being shaped for this purpose (Fig. 125):

Faced Hem {or False Hem). - This device is used when garments have been outgrown in length or when there is a short quantity of cloth in the first making, and sometimes by way of decoration on the right side of a garment. The strips for this facing should be cut the correct depth and the same grain of the material as the garment itself; then joined except the final seam. If for a simple facing, the right side of the facing should then be placed to the right side of the garment, basted to within one inch each side the point for the final join; make the join and baste remaining sections, stitch, then turn the facing to wrong side of garment and crease the seam so that a thread or two of the garment comes below the edge to prevent the facing from showing on the right side. Treat the upper edge of this hem in the same manner as a plain hem (Fig. 126).

Fig. 123. - Flannel fell.

Fig. 124. - Plain hem, stitched by machine.

Fig. 125. - Shaped hems, with featherstitching and fagotting.

Shaped Hems

The lower edge of the garment is sometimes marked off in scallops or points, the facing basted to place and the stitching carried around the scallops, the edges trimmed and turned as in the plain facing (Fig. 127).

Fig. 126. - Faced hem.

Embroidery Edging As Facing

Place the right side of the edging to the right side of the cloth, having the finished edge of the embroidery turned away from the edge of the garment, and the edge of the garment on the plain part or background of the edging, allowing sufficient of the latter to form a facing. Stitch one-eighth inch from the edge of the garment, then turn edging down into position, fold in the top of the facing and finish in any desired way (Fig. 128).