To Make Divisions

Front Panel, measure from center front one-twelfth hip measure on hip line. At the bottom, twice the amount at hip.

Back Gore or Panel, same as front.

Draw lines through points just measured, letting them extend to waist line. . These form the seam lines of the panel or gores.

Side Gores

At Hip, divide the remainder of the hip measure in half. At bottom, divide the remainder of the bottom in half. Connect these points, letting the line extend to the waist line.

Darts

Measure waist line of pattern. Subtract one-half waist measure from this to find how much must be taken out in darts. Remove fulness at waist as follows:

Back of front gore, one-quarter inch.

Fig. 58. - Seven-gore skirt pattern, panel front, two side- and one back-gore, with inverted plait, developed from a circular foundation skirt pattern.

Front of side gore, one-quarter to three-quarter inch.

Front of back gore, one-quarter inch.

Back of side gore, three-quarter to one inch.

Subtract from the amount on waist line of pattern what has already been taken out in darts. The remainder should be taken from the hip seam of the side gores, taking more from the back of the first gore than from the front of the second gore.

Mark guide lines for joining gores and directions for correct )lacing on material.

Finishing Line, as far from floor as desired.

Seven-gore Skirt (Fig. 58). - Division for Gores: Front Panel. - Measure on hip line from center front one-twelfth hip measure; at bottom, one and a half times the amount at hip.

Back Gore equals one inch more than front gore at hip, and at bottom one-third of the remainder minus two inches.

Side Gores

Divide remainder of hip in half. Divide bottom in half. Connect points marked for seam lines, letting them extend to waist line.

Darts

Remove fulness as in six-gored skirt.

Mark guide lines for joining gores and directions for correct placing on material.

Finishing Line

Mark desired distance from floor.

Inverted Plait

This plait is frequently added to a skirt having bias seam in center back. Add two to three inches at top of skirt, in center back, and twice that amount at the bottom. Fold plait to place and then cut top like top of skirt, to prevent its falling short at the top when garment is being made.

Godet, Organ-Pipe, Or Cartridge Plaits

These are gores quite wide at the bottom and narrow at the top. Fig. 59A, cut with the center of the gore on the straight of the material. Sometimes two or more are set in the back of a skirt having a wide circular front or having a wide side gore. They add length to the figure as well as fulness at the foot. The seams are usually unpressed to make the plait seem round. They are only used when skirts are wide. The plait may be from two to four inches at top, and twelve to fifteen inches at bottom.