This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Another treatment of gores which keeps the skirt close about the knees, but flaring around the feet, is shown in Fig, 59B. It is used in skirts having as many as seven or more gores. To secure this effect, measure in one-half to one inch at the knee length on each side of the gores, and draw line from the hip line, through this point, passing through another point twelve to fifteen inches from the bottom, and extend line to a point two to three inches beyond the side of the gore at the bottom.
Before cutting paper pattern apart on the gore lines, cut it out in cambrice or muslin as a circular skirt, tracing the gores and marking them with colored thread. In this way, you can test several skirts on the one foundation, simply ripping out the darts, removing bastings and tracing other lines.
Lay two cut ends of cambric together.
Pin selvedge. Place broad end of the pattern to cut ends of the goods, center front three-quarters of an inch from selvedge. If cloth is narrow, piece on selvedge at back (Fig. 192). Allow two-inch center back, one-half inch at waist; nothing at bottom.
Cut out on seam allowance at top and center back and on edge of pattern at bottom.
Trace waist, hip and finishing lines, darts, seams and gores.
Mark waist, hip, finishing line and gores with colored thread.
Pin seams, keeping traced lines together, hip and waist lines meeting. Baste darts with small stitches, beginning at point and continuing to waist line. Leave back seam open twelve to thirteen inches from top. Fold right hand side under, and baste. Mark with colored thread, line of seam on under side. Turn cloth up on finishing line and pin to skirt, with pins at right angles to edge.
Prepare belt of one-inch soft belting. Sew two hooks and eyes securely, so the ends of belt just come together. Have belt correct waist measure. Place belt on figure, fastening in center back. Put skirt on, seams inside, and pin at hip, center front, center back and sides to keep it in place. Then pin skirt to belt, easing it sufficiently to make it set smoothly at the hips. Pin placket together. Look skirt over carefully. Fit right hand side only. If the general width of the skirt pleases, notice the trend of the gore lines. See if the width of front gore or panel meets with your approval. If it seems too wide at the bottom in proportion to the hip, indicate by pins (stretching tape line from hip to bottom) just how much you would increase or decrease the width. Do the same with other gores and panel, until you are satisfied with the proportion. If too full at the waist, pin out in the darts, being careful to end dart well.
Should the hip line not be parallel with the floor at all points, draw a tape around the figure, in even line, and re-draw lip line from center front to back on the side upon which alterations lave been made. Glance at the bottom of the skirt; if the hip line was irregular, this will also need changing, but can be corrected by measuring from the new hip line when correcting the pattern. Never keep anyone standing for work that can be done in the hand.
These general rules for fitting, with a few additions, will apply to almost any type of skirt.
Seam lines should be at right angles to the waist line, sloping slightly toward front, so as to give appearance of straight lines. In fitting it is sometimes necessary to take more from one gore than another. When possible, pin without ripping seam. Again it may be necessary to open seam, and re-pin to change the direction of the grain of the cloth. This occurs some-9 times in a two-piece skirt. It may push toward the front too much, and if simply raised at the waist line in the back to correct this, will poke out at the bottom in the back. In this case, rip hip seam, raise front enough to bring grain into position, re-pin seam, keeping back gore on original line, and if necessary, take out fulness in seam below hip. Correct waist and hip lines. Strive for firm, unbroken seam lines, when fitting. Remember never to fit skirts close. There must be chance for working with the garment and stitching, and ease of fit after completion. Skirts that are good in line, but too tight all through, may be stitched outside bastings to give greater ease.
Should there be a tendency to push forward in the front, raise the skirt at the waist line in the back. This may necessitate a change in the seam line of the centre back. In testing circular pattern if there is too much flare, it may be reduced by laying a plait below the hip. The reverse can be done if skirt is not full enough. Slash it and set a piece in the slash.
Trace alterations; open seam or darts and trace opposite side of skirt. Re-mark with colored cotton new waist, hip, or finishing lines. Correct paper pattern according to the altera tions made.