This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Lawn (Persian or linen), in white or color. Dimity (striped or cross-barred), white or figured. Swiss (embroidered), in white or colors. Batiste (plain or embroidered), in white or colors. Handkerchief linen, in white or colors. Organdie (washable), in white Or colors. Crepe (plain or embroidered), in white or colors. Mull, in white or colors. Voile (plain or embroidered), in white or colors. Net (washable).
Valenciennes: French or German, Cluny, Irish, Torchon.
Snap fasteners or hooks and eyes. Cord. Buttons.
Having decided upon the kind of material you will use, designed the dress, and provided yourself with a suitable pattern for cutting it, drafted, draped, or commercial, calculate the quantity necessary to make the dress. Also estimate the amount of trimming required and the findings. Purchase the same.
It has been generally conceded that it is best to shrink all cotton or linen materials for lingerie dresses before making them up. This process entails extra work in the beginning but allowance for shrinkage could be made instead in the making, if we could count on the amount the material would shrink. It may save letting out seams or dropping hems later on when the dress has been laundered.
Unless tucks and plaits are marked on the pattern, these should be laid in the material before placing the pattern for cutting out. If tucks are to be placed in the waist and sleeves they must either be basted or stitched in before the cutting is done. Allowance for tucks in the skirt, whether running across or up and down, may. be made when cutting, and these basted to place. Open and fold your material end to end and plan the best placing of the pattern. After you have decided on the most economical cutting, pin the pattern to place and cut the material.
Trace seams very lightly so as not to mar the material. Heavy tracing cuts the threads. Observe the general rule for tracing seams.
Use fine thread for basting seams. Avoid using colored thread except where very necessary, to mark notches, points for gathers, plaits or places for trimming. Plan your basting so as to have as few fittings as possible. If the dress is a simple one-piece garment, a straight or gored skirt with hem and tucks, gathered or plaited at the waist, and a simple full waist, proceed as follows:
1. Prepare temporary band of skirt.
2. Baste the seams.
3. Lay hem and baste (not turning upper edge).
4. Lay tucks and baste (in skirt).
5. Gather or plait skirt and baste to the band.
6. Baste seams of waist and sleeves.
7. Pin sleeve in waist, baste to place.
8. Baste a cambric or soft muslin pattern of the collar, cuffs and trimmings to place for fitting. If cut in the material, it sometimes causes waste, as alterations made in waist may change the position or the shape of these.
9. Gather or plait the bottom of the waist to the band.
If the skirt is to be made of a succession of flounces set one upon another; these should be basted together to see if the proportionate depths are good, and the fulness well distributed, both on the flounces and at the waist.
When the dress is to be worn over a separate slip, first fit the slip, turning the line at the bottom of the skirt and at the neck. Then fit the dress over the slip, to get a better idea of the finished gown; note the line at the bottom and other points that may need alterations.
If an underbodice is used to which to attach waist and skirt, have this ready to fit at the same time as the dress, so all points for gathers, etc., may be marked then.