This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Place center of back of pattern on lengthwise edge of paper. Place front so that shoulder seam meets shoulder seam of back at armholes and neck; separate shoulder lines one-quarter inch at neck, and one and one-quarter inches at arm's eye. Cut around neck line, and design outer edge and front any shape desired. Cut in cambric, center back on lengthwise fold; fit to neck (Fig. 745).
Place center back of pattern on edge of paper, and front so that shoulder seam meets shoulder seam of back at armhole and neck. Design lower edge of yoke on back, any depth and shape desired. Let the lower edge of the front fall as far below the shoulder seam as desired, and any shape. Trace
Combine the gores the same as in design for skirt with yoke and panel in one (Fig. 68D ).
(a) Design a yoke for a middy blouse, (6) for a mannish shirt.
For the purpose of designing, it will be necessary to have a dress form (Fig. 75), on which a close-fitting lining previously fitted to the person for whom garments are to be designed, has been placed, the form padded with tissue paper to fill out the lining. It will also be necessary to have either a cardboard sleeve, cut from the fitted sleeve lining, or a fitted sleeve lining stuffed with curled hair or tissue paper (Fig. 85).
Use two and one-half yards closely-woven unbleached cotton cloth. Use either a drafted or commercial pattern to cut the fitted lining. When commercial patterns are used, follow the directions on the patterns for the correct placing on the material.
To Cut Waist from Drafted. Pattern. - Place cut ends of cotton cloth together; place the center front on a lengthwise thread of the goods, and the other pieces, side front, back, side back, and under arm, with the chest line on a crosswise thread of the goods (Fig. 76).
Place back of upper and under sleeve above elbow on a lengthwise thread of the goods. Cut one sleeve.
Lengthwise around neck.
Waist: three-eighth inch on neck and arm-hole ; one inch on all other seams. Sleeve: one-quarter inch top and bottom and one inch on length seams. Collar: one-quarter inch all seams. Cut out on seam allowance marks.