Quantity Of Material And Trimmings

The quantity of material for the body part of the dress may be calculated by measuring from the highest point for the shoulder to the floor in front, adding the desired depth of the hem and one-half to one yard for sleeves, according as they may be short or long. Two lengths of most materials will be sufficient, except perhaps flannelette, which is narrow, in which case three lengths should be provided, and less counted for sleeves. The "sacque front" night-dress would better have three lengths, except with forty- or forty-five-inch material, and nothing extra for sleeves, perhaps.

When the decoration (edging or lace) has been planned, the necessary amount of material for this can be calculated by measuring a drafted pattern, and making sufficient allowance for joins and turning corners. In Fig. 169 is shown a night-dress with simple treatment of the neck and sleeves. The neck is gathered and set 19

Fig. 169. - Night-dress of nainsook, with simple decoration of embroidered beading and lace edging. (Sleeves gathered at armhole and lower edge.)

FIG. 170. - Night-dress of fine nainsook with lace and embroidered beading as decoration.

The garment is one of a set.

• * into beading; for detail see Fig. 148. Fig. 170 shows a more elaborate treatment.

Making Night-Dress

The type of gown chosen for this problem is a round neck, over-the-head gown, with short sleeves that are to be gathered into the armhole. The decoration is to be lace edge, set on the gown, lace edge, and ribbon beading between the two lace edges. For detail see Fig. 155. The lower edges of the sleeves are to be finished in the same way as the neck of the gown. No other decoration is to be used, except perhaps fine tucking, introduced in both front and back, below the neck line. A pattern developed from a drafted shirtwaist pattern is to be used.

Cutting Night-Dress

The shirtwaist pattern from which has been developed this night-gown pattern was tested and fitted; therefore little if any alteration should be necessary in this garment. Prepare material for cutting according to directions, p. 227. If tucks are to be used as decoration at the neck, these should be put in before cutting gown (see directions for corset cover, p. 265). Fold material through the center lengthwise, two selvedges meeting. Place front piece of pattern with its straight edge to the lengthwise fold, the broad end to the cut ends of the material. Lay the back piece on in the same way, with its broad end to the opposite cut end of the material; the material that is left after cutting dress will thus be in one piece, which may be of advantage in further cutting. Should the material not be wide enough to cut the entire width of the pieces, the material may be pieced as far as is necessary, using from the strip that was left from first cutting. Pin selvedges together, allowing just enough for an overhanded seam, or for a fell. Cut around pattern, allowing three-quarter-inch seams and a three-inch hem. Do not allow any at the neck. Trace seams. Cut sleeves from the material left from the first cutting, placing the sleeve pattern as directed for the grain of the material. Allow one-quarter-inch seams all around sleeve; cut and trace.