This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
1. Box plaits are used as a decorative means of fastening on corset covers, underbodices and night-dresses which fasten in front, instead of slipping over the head. Buttonholes are worked in the box plaits. Allowance for the width of the plait plus one-quarter-inch turn must be made in cutting. Fold toward the right side one-quarter inch; crease firmly; fold again on the right side the width planned for the completed box plait. Stitch by hand or machine one-eighth inch from each folded edge; featherstitching or chain-stitching may be used instead of stitching (Fig. 134).
2. Hems are used for the under side of the openings in corset covers, underbodices and night-dresses. Buttons are sewed through the hem which is made a little narrower than the box plait on the •upper side. Usually they are folded so there is a triple thickness of material.
FIG. 134. - Box plait for corset cover, edges featherstitched.
To make: Allow four times the desired width of the hem plus one-half inch. Fold the edge of the cloth one-quarter inch; measure from the crease of this fold one-fourth the amount allowed, minus one - quarter inch, and crease. Baste the hem thus formed, and crease a tuck which will measure one-eighth inch deeper than the hem and lie directly on top of it. Lay the tuck over the hem and stitch through together. The buttonholes are worked in the fly and it is tacked to the front of the corset cover between the buttonholes. If a fly is made under a box plait, do not make the first turn on the edge, but slip the raw edge under the fold of the box plait. The hem on the left side is made in the usual way (Fig. 135).
Very narrow hems are sometimes placed on each side of a petticoat opening, the hem on the right hand side folded to wrong side, so as to form a lap, stitched across the bottom in slanting line, and caught in the belt at the top (Fig. 136).
Fig. 135. - Hem and fly.
3. Facings are of two kinds, straight and bias. The straight facings are cut lengthwise of the material and are used on garments having straight or bias openings. In the latter, they prevent stretching of the opening in the wear of the garment. They are used on corset covers, night-dresses (straight openings), petticoats and drawers (straight or bias openings).
Fig. 136. - Narrow hems used for petticoat placket.