This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
When a high-neck gown without a yoke is desired, deep tucks (two on each side centre back) or three narrow box plaits are good decoration for the back, adding fulness as well. The front, buttoning from neck to feet, or opening like the gown described above, may have as decoration, rows of smocking, below the shoulder and at the neck, done with thread of delicate color, to which add tiny circular collar and cuffs of single thickness of material, the edge rolled and whipped with the same thread that has been used for the smocking.
Flannelette gowns, at their best, cannot be made quite as attractive as others, because of the thickness of the material. They are warm and "comfy" in winter, and as some of us like to wear them, we should want them as attractive as possible.
In planning the gown, strive to avoid any unnecessary bulk or thickness. Used stitched fells and, where possible, single thickness of cloth on edges of collars and sleeves. Embroidered scallops in the color of a stripe, or edges rolled and whipped, will preclude the necessity of double collar and cuff. Seam the collar to the neck of the gown, and bind with a bias strip of some soft material, like nainsook. To draw fulness of sleeve in, gather two to three inches above the scalloped or rolled edge, two rows of gathers. Baste a band of nainsook to the under side, and sew over gathers, through nainsook, with outline or chain stitch in heavy thread like scallops. Other types of undergarments, patterns for which can be designed from drafted patterns, or cut from commercial patterns, may be made of the materials suggested, and put together by application of the same methods as before described.
Fig. 172. - Kimono night-dress of cotton crepe, showing a garment which has been laundered, washed, but not ironed.