This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
This is a comfortable kind of gown, requiring little time to make, but not as serviceable as the one with sleeves, unless made with a gusset, set into sleeve, and underarm seams. Fig. 171 shows such a gown of nainsook trimmed with Irish lace, the join of which has been well made. Crepe admits of very dainty treatment in decoration. The crepe gown shown in Fig. 172 is made of the kind of material with a fine crinkle. It is a kimono gown. The gown (which has been laundered, and is shown un-ironed, as it was folded when taken from the line) shows an interesting mode of decoration. The neck is edged with lace beading and an edging of val lace (fish-eye pattern), which is durable. Just below the neck is a line of featherstitching; also at the edge of the sleeve, either side of a row of crochet buttons on the front. At the center front waist line, several rows of machine gathers hold the fulness in place. At the end of the gathers double rows of feather-stitching carry across to the underarm seam. The gown is very dainty and attractive.
Fig. 171. - Kimono night-dress of nainsook, with Irish lace edge, showing join of lace on left shoulder.
Straighten material. Fold through the center lengthwise; find center of length and fold across the material.
Lay pattern on material so that the straight edge of the body pattern is on the lengthwise fold and the straight edge of the sleeve pattern is on the crosswise fold. If using drafted pattern, cut around outside of pattern, allowing seams. Cut on the upper line marked for the neck; trace the lower line; open crosswise fold and cut out neck one-half way round on the lower line. The low line is the front, the higher the back. Finish seams, neck and sleeves like other gowns. The neck and sleeves may be finished in any approved fashion.
Difference in construction. Use the pattern, designed from a shirtwaist pattern, but mark off on the back piece the depth and shape of the yoke desired. Trace a yoke pattern from this. Do the same with the front.
Cut two thicknesses for the back yoke, only one for the front; if the latter is to be tucked and lace-trimmed, this must be done before cutting out.
Cut back of gown (allowing fulness) less the depth of the yoke. Cut the front with the straight edge of the pattern along the selvedges, allowing one and one-quarter inches for box plait and hem.
Gather the top of the back of the gown except one inch from each end. Set gathers on to under side of yoke, wrong side of gown to right side of under yoke; baste. Place right side of upper yoke to right side of gown, edges even; baste. Stitch across lower edge of yoke; turn parts of yoke up to position, crease lower edges firmly, baste and stitch across once or twice. If three lengths of cloth have been allowed, or very wide material, turn box plaits on right side (as in corset cover) ; turn hem also to right side. Lay box plait over hem as far as depth of opening. Below this cut hem away within one-quarter inch of outer edge. Baste box plait to place and stitch both edges, the length of the gown. Stitch inside edge of hem and diagonally across opening.
Set front yoke into gown with entre-deux, finishing braid. At shoulder, seam front yoke and under thickness of back yoke together; turn in upper thickness of back yoke, baste, and stitch (one or two rows).
The neck of such a gown may be finished with a narrow ruffle, lace-edged, set into entre-deux, or the raw edges may be turned in under a bias fold of material or finishing braid, either of these stitched on both edges and a narrow lace overhanded to this. Other parts of the garment involve no new principles.