This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Various types of skirts may be designed from a plain six-gored pattern. For practice exercises in this work, draft a half-size six-gored skirt to standard measures; measure the gores and place marks for seaming. Trace the pattern on manila cardboard, very heavy paper, or oak tag, and cut the gores apart. Use pattern paper, or if not procurable, unbleached tissue paper in large sheets for designing.
1. Four-yore Skirt (Close-fitting). - To design a skirt having four gores, with seam in center front, over hip and center back: (a) Place the front and first side gore of pattern together, having them meet at the hip line and at the bottom, (b) Place the second side gore and back together in the same way. Draw lines all around the two pieces of the pattern mark points for hip line, darts, and seaming; remove pattern. At top allow one-quarter-inch seam, center front, at hip and center back one-half inch, and nothing at the bottom. Turn in all edges on the seam lines except the waist, and bottom. Cut strips of paper one inch wide and the length of the seams; crease the center of the strip and lay the folded edge of the gores along this center crease; pin to place and represent stitching with pencil or basting (Fig. 65 A and B). This seam finish is called a slot seam.
Turn up skirt at the bottom one and one-half inches (Fig. 65 A).
This pattern may be marked to cut in one of two ways: (1) If one desires a skirt to be plain in the front, with flare over the hips and in the back, place the centre front and the front edge of the second piece on the lengthwise thread of the goods; this will bring a bias edge on the back of the first side gore and a bias seam in the center back. (2) To make the skirt flare at the sides and back, and ripple in front as well, place the pattern so that the center of each gore is on the lengthwise thread of the goods; this cutting makes all seams bias.
2. Four-gore Shirt (Fulness at Top). - Place pattern in the same way as in No. 1, but add as much fulness at the waist to the back of each gore as desired, drawing line from this point to the bottom of the skirt. This will necessitate a new waist line extending through the added width. To draft this, place the long arm of the square on the center front and the short arm touching the highest point of the second gore; mark on the new seam line a point opposite this. Then draw waist line from the centre front to this point. Measure new seam line from this point and make it the length of the original line; draw a new line from this for the bottom of gore. Proceed in the same way for the second piece.
Mark pattern for placing. (1) Center front and center back on a lengthwise thread or fold which makes hip seam bias on both edges, or (2) center front on lengthwise thread or fold and hip seam on a lengthwise thread which gives a slightly bias seam in the center back. This skirt is good for cutting in thin cotton, soft silk or crepe.