This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Directions are here given for designing a corset cover pattern from a drafted shirtwaist pattern (Fig. 40). No other measures are necessary than those already used in drafting the shirtwaist pattern.
FIG. 40. - Corset cover pattern designed from drafted shirtwaist pattern.
Corset Cover Pattern (Fig. 40). - To design from Drafted Shirtwaist Pattern. - Place the back and front of the pattern on a sheet of paper, so that the center back is on one edge, the center front on the opposite edge.
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Back
AB equals one-half neck measure minus two inches.
CD equals one-quarter shoulder line.
BD equals neck curve.
EF equals one-half inch.
GH equals three-quarter inch.
FH equals new waist line.
Front
AB equals one-half neck measure minus two inches. CD equals one-quarter shoulder line. GH equals three-quarter inch. EH equals new waist line.
Centre back, centre front, waist, neck, armhole and underarm lines. Cut pattern out on tracing. Patterns can also be developed from commercial patterns in the same way.
Drafted Peplum for Corset Cover (Fig. 41) . - A draft for a peplum is given below. If desired, the same can be used for yoke pattern for skirt or drawers, using any depth desired.
Measures Required Practice
Waist ............. 24 inches
Depth of.Peplum ... 4 inches To Draft Peplum ... 8 inches
AX equals line of indefinite length. AB equals one-third of waist measure. BC equals curve for waist
(use AB as radius to swing curve about one-quarter circle). BD equals one-half waist measure on BC. BE equals depth of peplum, four inches. ADF equals radius, equals AE.
EF equals curve for lower edge (AE as radius). BE equals lengthwise thread of goods in cutting.
The method of designing a night-dress pattern from a drafted shirtwaist pattern is also explained and illustrated (Fig. 42). The break in the illustration was made to preserve the correct slant of the lines and the width of the gown at the bottom, in the space allotted to the diagram.
Fig. 41. - Draft of peplum pattern.
Measures Required
Length of back, bone in neck to floor.
Length of front, hollow of neck to floor.
Desired width at bottom.
Place the back and front of the pattern on a sheet of drafting paper, so that the centre back and the centre front are parallel with the edge of the paper.
Back
AB equals length from the bone in neck to the floor.
AG equals one-half neck measure minus two inches.
DE equals one-third shoulder line.
FG equals one-half inch.
GH equals one-half inch (extend armhole line).
BI equals desired width at bottom (should be a little narrower than front).
HI equals side seam.
K equals point on HI opposite end of waist line.
KL equals one-half inch.
KM equals waist line.
LJ equals MB.
HLS equals side seam (new, curved line).
Front
AB equals length of front from hollow of neck to floor. AG equals one-half neck measure minus two inches. DE equals one-third shoulder line. FG equals one-half inch. GH equals one-half inch (extend armhole). BI equals desired width at bottom (should be wider than back). HI equals side seam. HJ equals HJ of back.
K equals point on HJ opposite end of waist line. KL equals one-half inch. HLJ equals side seam (new, curved line).
FIG. 42. - Night-gown pattern designed from drafted shirtwaist pattern Bank).
Fig. 42a. - Night-gown pattern designed from drafted shirtwaist pattern (Front).
Fig. 43. - Circular night-gown designed from shirtwaist sleeve pattern.
Circular Night-gown Sleeve (Fig. 43) (Designed from shirtwaist sleeve pattern.)
AB equals desired length, measured from the bone in top of shoulder. BC equals curve for bottom; use A as pivot, AB as radius to swing curve, any desired width. CD equals seam of sleeve.
Night-gown Sleeve Gathered into Band at Lower Edge (Fig. 44)
(Designed from shirtwaist sleeve pattern.)
AB equals desired length measured from bone in top of shoulder.
BC equals one inch.
CD equals dotted line (one-half width of sleeve at top plus one to two inches) at right angles to AB. DE equals seam of sleeve.
Fig. 44. - Straight night-gown sleeve; A, sleeve pattern designed from drafted shirtwaist pattern; B, sleeve pattern open.
 
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