This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Petticoats may be cut upon various lines. Either four- or five-gored patterns are satisfactory for general wear. If the outer-garment with which the petticoat is to be worn is of sheer material, unless there is to be a slip worn over the petticoat, consideration must be given to the location and number of seams in the petticoat, and also to the manner of its decoration, that there may be no danger of marring the effect of the dress. Unless one is having several petticoats, it is wiser to keep to simple decoration on the few, with perhaps additional touches on a very best one, for "dress up" use. Fig. 164A shows a petticoat with simple embroidered flounce, suitable for general wear. Fig. 164B shows a utility skirt of poplin, with edge scalloped and foot of skirt decorated with simple hand embroidery. Fig. 165 shows a petticoat designed for occasional wear. It has more decoration, but this is simply applied and the lace is of good quality. The cost of all the garments is listed on p. 14.
This will depend upon the kind of garment to be cut, the height of the figure, the width of skirt desired, and the width of the material from which it is to be cut. For wide materials, and average figures, to cut a four or five-gored petticoat, will require: (1) Petticoat full length with hem and embroidered flounce, twice the length of the skirt, plus the hem; also quantity necessary for the flounce. (2) Petticoat full length, with dust ruffle and flounce of material, twice the finished length of the petticoat, and the material necessary for dust ruffle and flounce.
Dust Ruffle: Allow one and one-quarter to one and one-third times the width of the petticoat at the lower edge for dust ruffle. Divide the entire width of the ruffle by the width of the material to ascertain the necessary number of strips. Multiply the desired depth, four to five inches finished, of the dust ruffle by the number of strips to ascertain the amount of material to allow.
Fig. 165. - Petticoat for occasional wear, of nainsook, lace and embroidered beading.
Straight Flounce: Same as for dust ruffle, allowing one and one-third to one and one-half times the width of petticoat at the lower edge for the fulness of the flounce.
Circular Flounce (Sectional) : Lay a section of the pattern on table as if for cutting out with center on a lengthwise thread. Lay another section beside this, reversing position, to see how many sections can be gotten out of certain width materials; then measure from the extreme end of one section, on a line with that of the other, to ascertain how much cloth would be required for the number placed. For instance, if it requires three-quarter yard to cut two sections, and there are eight sections in the flounce, it will require four times three-quarter yard for the entire flounce.