This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Mark the center of the piece of net or lace intended for the yoke, after having marked off a strip large enough for the collar. Yokes are stretched usually without seam on the shoulder. With the net lengthwise in the center front, the back will be somewhat bias. This can be stayed with a straight piece of net later on. Stretch the yoke very carefully, and cut the neck out with the greatest care, so as not to have it fall short at any point. Pin closely and baste on form, to hold it in place.
Use the cardboard model of collar which was prepared when fitting tight-fitted waist lining for padding form. Cut strip of net lengthwise, one and one-half inches longer than collar and one inch deeper. Turn one-quarter inch on one edge, baste. Colored basting through center. Stretch lower edge of collar along cardboard, keeping center of net to center front of collar. Stretch and pin to cardboard. Colored thread for lines for extenders. At right hand end, fold net even with edge; at left hand end, let it extend one-half inch for facing. Baste collar extenders to place, top and bottom, before taking from cardboard, using lines on board as guide for direction (Fig. 820). Remove from cardboard, pin to neck line of guimpe. Baste after removing from form.
May be draped over padded arm or cardboard. Seam may come directly underarm or as shown (Fig. S2A). Baste sleeve, place in armhole. Try guimpe on. Alter if necessary.
Remove bastings at neck, stitch at a time; put finger between outside and lining and re-baste collar as you rip. Remove extenders. Hem collar with No. 120 thread, from right side of neck, trim edge on wrong side to one-eighth inch and whip down so that it looks as if rolled; overcasting stitch gives better result. Turn in the lower edge of yoke and sew it with fine running stitches. Then cut the under side of the lining away, following the line of the yoke, but allow one inch beyond the sewing line on the edge of the yoke. Clip the edge of the lining, turn in one-quarter inch, and finish the same as the yoke.
The edge of the top of the collar may be turned in, and Irish picot with points turned down, sewed to it, or Irish ladder may be sewed to the edge, the top of the collar being cut lower to accommodate the lace. Sometimes rat-tail braid is rolled and whipped into the edge of the collar to finish it. Narrow little lace braids make attractive edges for such collars. Lace braid, narrow footing, or net, may be used to face the extensions on the yoke and collar, and also the edge which is turned back. Hem the sides of the guimpe, one-half-inch hem. Use small hooks and thread loops on yoke and collar, and snap fasteners on guimpe, except at waist, use one large hook and eye.
2. Guimpe from Shirtwaist Pattern. - When one does not have a dress-form, a net guimpe may be cut from a shirtwaist pattern. Cut net lining by fitted pattern, mark center front with colored thread, stitch shoulder seams. Run thread around neck to keep it from stretching. Place lining on one for whom it is being made, and drape outside on lining as on dress-form; fit collar; drape sleeve on cardboard form; or lay out flat on cutting board and pin carefully, so that it is very smooth, but not stretched to one side or the other. Mark material for yoke through the center, as in other guimpe. Pin center of yoke material to center of lining, and smooth across, pinning to place as it is stretched across. Work carefully. Pin it closely, remove pins that hold lining to board and baste yoke material to lining, following line at lower edge indicated by pins. Trim out guimpe under yoke, allowing very generous seams. Run a thread around neck line of yoke, making it a little tight (wind thread around pin) so it will not stretch when you try guimpe on. Cut and baste sleeve, and place in armhole. Cut strip for collar two inches longer than needed and one inch deeper. Fold one-quarter inch on one edge and baste. Try guimpe on. See if neck line is good. Then pin collar to place, center front to center front. Stretch collar as much as seems necessary to make it smooth. Pin it up the back, and the clip at top, and trim line as low in front as desired, and raise back of ear, then lower to center back. It is rather difficult to turn this line, but it can be done nicely if plenty of. time is given to it. The collar can be made the same as for draped guimpe over cardboard. Pin waist belt to place. When removing guimpe, be careful to mark the line on back of collar with pins, also back of yoke.
Follow the directions given for other guimpe above.
1. What should be considered in designing a silk dress for afternoon or street wear?
2. What materials and trimmings are suitable for making a simple silk dress?
3. How would you finish the seams of a silk dress?
4. In what two ways may net guimpes be made?
5. How would you sew the collar on a net guimpe; finish the ends and top?
6. For what purposes is a silk dress especially suitable?