This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Measure waist line. Deduct one-half waist measure from this amount, the remainder to be taken out in a dart over the hip. Take part from each side of the hip seam at the waist line, taking more from the back of the front piece than from the back.
1. Center front on fold, and front edge of back lengthwise of material, having bias seam in the center back.
Remove fulness at waist line same as two-piece skirt.
Mark guide lines for seam joining and correct placing on material.
Mark same as circular skirt, any desired height from floor.
Divisions as Follows: 1. Four-gore, Fig. 52, which allows for cutting with seams (straight or bias) in center front and centre back, as well as on hips.
2. Panel Front and Back (Fig. 53). - Measure from center front on hip line, one-twelfth of hip measure; at the bottom, twice the amount at hip. Connect these points with straight line, letting it extend to waist line. Measure from center back on hip line and at bottom in the same way and connect points with straight line to form panel. The side gore is the remaining space between the panels.
Remove extra fullness at waist, taking darts from panels and side gore in the following way:
Back of front panel, one-quarter inch.
Front of side gore, one-quarter to three-quarter inch.
Front of back panel, one-quarter inch.
Back of side gore, three-quarter to one inch.
Subtract amount taken in these darts from amount to be taken out of waist measure of pattern. Take the remainder out of center of side gore at waist line, sloping to center of hip line.
Mark guide lines for seam joining and directions for correct placing on material.
Fig. 53. - Four-gore skirt pattern, having panel front and back, developed from a circular foundation pattern.
Same as in circular skirt, any desired height from floor.
Five-gore Skirt (Figs. 54 and 55). - Either of two divisions may be made for this skirt, as follows:
To Make Divisions (Fig. 54). - 1. Skirt with Panel Back and Front Opening Under a Tuck. Back, measure one-tenth of hip from center back, on hip line, and twice this amount at bottom.