This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
AB equals one-half hip measure minus one-eighth of one-half width around bottom". AC equals one-tenth of one-half width around bottom. CD equals one-half of AB.
DE equals the difference between center front length and length over hip, straight up from D. CEB equals waist line. EF equals hip depth at right angle to waist line minus one-half inch. Note. - If there is much difference between the center front and hip lengths, deduct three-quarter to one inch from hip depth.
GFI equals hip line one-half hip measure passing through H.
CJ equals length of front, draw line. JKL equals line of indefinite length, for bottom of skirt, secured by placing end of tape measure at hip line and measuring down at frequent intervals, the same distance as GJ. JM equals one-half width around bottom. MIN equals center back line, ruler touching M and I. (If there is a difference in the length over hip and center back, raise or lower N to account for the difference.)
JO equals two to four inches.
KP equals two to four inches.
MR equals two to four inches.
OPR equals finishing line of skirt (desired distance from floor).
When drafting narrow skirts (two yards or less), take an easy measure around the fullest part of the thigh, twelve inches below waist. Use this to test the pattern at points four to six inches below the hip line. If the width of the skirt falls short at this point, it must be corrected by increasing hip measure.
When pattern has been corrected, practice taking someone else's measures, and when these have been verified, draft to your own measures, a full size circular skirt pattern.
The circular skirt pattern which you have learned to draft may be divided into as many parts or gores as desired, two to fifteen, as the case may be. Naturally, narrow skirts will not admit of as many divisions as wide ones. The method of developing numerous types of plain gored skirts from the circular pattern is fully explained.
Fig. 52. - Two-gore skirt pattern, developed from circular foundation pattern. May also be used as three- or four-gore pattern.
As the width of the bottom of the circular skirt may be as flexible as you wish, so may the division of the gores vary with the changing fashions. One needs only to study the mode of the day, and build the skirt accordingly, as wide or narrow as may conform to the lines of one's figure.
Directions follow for making a number of divisions into gores.
Two-gore Skirt (Fig. 52). - The simplest division of a circular skirt would make of it a two-piece skirt, with seams over the hip, the center front and back placed on a lengthwise fold of the goods when cutting.