Tools

We should become familiar at the very outset with the names of the tools we shall need, their use, and the manner of taking care of them. Following is a list of such:

Needed in clothing construction

Thimble, of good material

Tape-measure (good one; stitched on both edges; sateen best) Pins, dressmaker's steel points, one-quarter lb.box Pin-cushion (cloth stuffed with curled hair; always filled with pins Needles: Milliner's for basting, ground downs for very fine sewing, sharps for sewing and dressmaking Emery, to smooth needles Scissors: Small, sharp points for ripping; small shears for cutting; medium size if desired; buttonhole scissors Tracing wheel, good points, to mark seams on cotton and linen Tailor's chalk, to mark seams Stiletto, for punching eyelets Bodkin, for running tape through casings Safety pins: To fasten to end of belt or fold which you wish to turn right side out. Push pin through after fastening, and it draws material with it

Needed for pattern making

Tailor's square (for drafting patterns)

Pattern paper (Manila heavy, light tissue)

Pencil, soft

Eraser

Tape-measure

Pins

Pin-cushion

Needles (milliner's for basting)

Note-book

Small ruler

Needed in designing...

Tailor's square

Pattern paper (Manila, heavy, light tissue)

Unbleached muslin

Cheese-cloth

Cambric

Tape measure

Pins

Pin-cushion

Needles (milliner's, sharps, 7-9)

Fashion plates

Costume prints

A certain amount of care is necessary in order to keep tools, especially those of steel, in good condition. Never let scissors, needles, steel pins, bodkins or tracing wheels, lie exposed to the damp air. Do not leave steel pins in a cushion for long at a time in summer. They will rust very quickly. Do not use good scissors to cut wire, paper or any harsh substance, like buckram; haircloth will also turn the edges of the blades. Keep the shears and scissors well sharpened, and do not trust them to indifferent workers. Seem selfish, if must be, about loaning your tools; no one will care for them as you do. Fold your tape measure when putting away. It takes up less room and keeps in better condition. A pasteboard box long enough to take your shears, or a work-basket, are suitable receptacles for all the tools at the close of a period of work. If grouped together, then no loss of time ensues at the beginning of another period in looking up the wherewithal for work.

Equipment

We should also familiarize ourselves with the pieces of equipment essential to good workmanship. The following should be noted:

Sewing machine......

Standard make and full equipment, tools and attachments

Cutting table........

Heavy, high, steady (36 inch); smooth but unvarnished, so tracing can be done at will. High enough to admit use of foot-rest and chair reasonably high

Dress-form..........

Padded to fit linings for use in draping and designing

Sleeve-form............Padded lining or cardboard sleeve

Pressing boards.......

Skirt boards, for large pressing Sleeve boards, for sleeve pressing Tailor's boards, for heavy pressing and shrinking Small seam board, used to press seams of waists, sleeves, etc.

Press cloths..........

Heavy duck, square of width, for thorough dampening

Cheese cloth...........For light pressing

Sponge................For dampening parts of garments

Pan...................For water

Irons................

Light Heavy

Wire stand upon which to invert an iron for steaming velvet or cloth

Tea-kettle.............For steaming materials

Wax..................For smoothing iron

Sand-paper or salt......For cleaning iron

Long ruler, 45 inches

Manila paper..........Heavy for patterns (roll)

Pattern paper..........Medium for patterns (sheets)

Tissue paper...........Large sheets for draping and padding

Whisk-broom........

For brushing up cloth when pressing, and threads from garments

Mirrors..............

Full length

Hand

Triple

Cleansers............

Ivory soap, to apply with cold water to oil spots from machines on cotton, linen or wash silk

Magnesia, block. Rub on both sides oil spots on silk and wool. Press with warm iron between sheets soft Manila paper. Repeat until spot disappears

Tracing board........

Heavy cardboard, covered with paste made of carpenter's chalk grated and mixed with water, and laid on with thick brush, the whole covered with a piece of heavy white curtain net. Saves time in marking seams on materials that do not take tracings

Skirt-marker...........For marking hem lines on skirts

Pinking machine.......For pinking seams, ruches, ruffles, etc.

Bias folders..........

Metal folders in a set of several widths for turning edge on bias folds before pressing

Set of hem-markers.....Various widths ready for use

Coloring matter for laces, etc.

Saffron leaves, steep and dip lace

Ochre powder, use dry powder in box and shake lace about in it Tea solution, dip lace Coffee solution, dip lace Always test with sample before using finally Tintex, coloring for lingerie waists

Soap................

Dry, hard piece of white soap to rub over material from which you wish to draw threads, to make them slip easily; also rubbed over thick seams to help them to pass easily under presser foot of machine