To obtain the best wear, the fronts should be cut tight across, from front seam to feather, and when joined under the gusset the back should be "tight-to-toe" to prevent the back-seam going awry in lasting. Blocked fronts should be tight-to-toe, with the inferior portion towards the top of the leg. This will allow the stretch to be removed during blocking across the front.

* If this be adopted, the clicker should stretch as much as possible the quarter, cutting away the superfluous material, relying on the paste to fasten it to the stiffener.

Fig. 180.

Fig. 180.

Shoe Vamps may be cut tight-to-toe or tight-across, according to the class of trade, method of lasting, and kind of material.