Rope may be made by a number of methods. Binder twine, used in lashing and other camp construction projects, is the usual base of rope that is handmade, although long vines, such as grapevine and fibers and inner strip of bark, may be used. Rope may be braided in a three-strand braid or twisted by hand. A good group project is to make a machine that will twist rope. The making of the machine described below calls for the aid of several campers. Once the machine is ready, it can be used indefinitely.
Equipment needed: bit and brace with 3/16" drill; pliers; screwdriver; crosscut saw; ruler and pencil; sandpaper; matches or lighter.
Materials needed: wood for machine as follows-1 piece x 6" x 11/2" for back, 1 piece y4" x 6" x 24" for base, 1 piece 1/4" x 11/2" x 12" for paddle, 1 forked stick for beater about 5" x 1/2" with 2" fork; 18" 12-gauge wire; 2 angle irons and 4 screws; binder twine, cotton cord, or similar material.
1. Drill 3 holes 2" apart, and 11/4" from top in backboard. Saw corners of board at top (Fig. XVI-35).
2. Attach base to back with angle irons (Fig. XVI-35) .
3. Sand edges of paddle (whittle handle, if desired). Mark center line, and mark places for 3 holes, to correspond with those on the backboard (Fig. XVI-35). Drill these holes.
4. Sand all edges.
5. Cut wire into three 11" pieces with cutting edge of pliers, and bend hook ends. Insert in holes from front, and finish as in Figure XVI-36.
6. Slip paddle on wires.
7. Make a beater from the forked stick; peel bark and sand smooth (Fig. XVI-37).
1. Cut 3 lengths of twine or cord; measure each length twice as long as desired length of finished rope, plus about 1/3 length. There will be some "take-up" by the twisting.
2. Fold each strand in half, so there is a loop in center. Slip a loop over each metal hook, and have one person (No. 1) stretch the six lengths out, away from machine, tying together with an overhand knot (Fig. XVI-38).
3. Another person (No. 2) sits on the baseboard, and is the operator of the paddle which turns the three wires (Fig. XVI-39).
4. A third person (No. 3) uses the beater to keep the twine from becoming entangled (Fig. XVI-39).
5. No. 1 holds bundle of twine strands out taut, as No. 2 pushes paddle around in a circle, making the strands a-b-c twist in 3 separate strands; as these strands are twisted tight, No. 3 moves the beater up and down length of strands, keeping the hairs of the twine from getting tangled, and also keeping the three strands separate. When the three strands are tightly twisted, No. 1 loosens hold on the end, and helps the rope twist evenly, in opposite direction from the twist of the individual strands. No. 3 uses beater to make the rope firm, pushing the beater against the three-stranded piece, as No. 1 guides the twisting. (Only practice will tell when to begin the rope-twisting.) The rope should be smooth, without little "bumps" of the smaller strands.
6. When rope is twisted all the way to the backboard, the loops are taken off the hooks, and the ends tied with an overhand knot, or whipped.
7. To remove hairs from the rope, singe with match or lighter, moving the flame under rope, and smoothing off with hand.
8. Roll under foot on board or floor, to make even. Hanging Shelves
When an extra shelf is needed in a cabin or an outdoor kitchen, a simple one can be made of boards and rope. To make into a "cooler" or a dustproof food box, just add heavy cotton material.
Equipment needed: brace and bit; sandpaper; crosscut saw.
Materials needed for shelf: 3 pieces of wood (ends of orange crates, outdoor plywood, 1/2" pine, etc.) desired size for shelves (for square food box, 12" is good size) ; 4 pieces of rope, 30" to 40" long, depending on distance between shelves. For cooler, add piece of cloth (heavy muslin, terry cloth, etc.; not cheesecloth; old turkish toweling is good) 4' 2" wide, long enough to reach above and below shelves (about the same length as one piece of rope) ; zipper for the length from top to bottom shelf; tacks or thumbtacks; pan for top.