Before cleaning an implement, the first thing to consider is whether the article you are about to wash is worth the chemical you will have to waste upon it. If not, then throw it away; if otherwise, the chemicals are not wasted. Do not count the labour, as it would be the same even if merely washing with water. On any article use water first - pure water, or as pure as it runs from the hydrants, and next to that soap. I place water first, as it ought to be, in an apothecary's shop. Other people place soap first; but soap is incompatible with a great many chemicals employed in a drug store, and in some cases had better be left out altogether. Water will dissolve out most iodides, nitrates, sulphates, chlorides, etc, with which soap is incompatible, even if they are incorporated with fatty substances, as in ointments. We have known clerks to dash soapsuds right into a graduate that has contained tincture of iron, or solutions of lead or lime, and then have a graduate more difficult to wash out than before, while, if they had used water alone, it would have been cleansed.

Cheapness is the thing to be desired in washing paraphernalia. Some druggists use powdered pumice, sawdust, sand brick, shot, wire and paper, solutions of soap in diluted alcohol, and of caustic potash in water, turpentine, ammonia, benzine, alcohol, ether, chloroform, hot water, and hydrochloric, nitric, and sulphuric acids. Some of the above are to be recommended, and others are not; for instance, powdered pumice is an excellent thing for scouring wedg-wood mortars and brightening spatulas. It is also useful when introduced into bottles on paper and a bent wire employed for scouring.

Dry sawdust is good for removing grease from mortars and spatulas after ointments have been made, and in soaking up oil and paint from floors when -spilled. Sand brick is useful in scouring spatulas. Shot for washing bottles I do not recommend, not so much from fear of lead poisoning, but because there are better methods for the same purpose, and less expensive. Shot that has been thrown into a greasy bottle becomes coated with fat, and is unfit for further use, as it will only dirty the next bottle it is thrown into. The shot itself, when once dirty, is hard to clean, and had better be thrown away. A very handy instrument is the bent wire and paper. With a good steel wire bent into proper shape, and introduced into bottles, we can accomplish wonders. A piece of newspaper, moistened and sprinkled with powdered pumice, will scour out of a bottle all dirt of a resinous character. If the bottle has contained any solutions of iron salts, use hydrochloric acid. A bottle that has contained lime water, or in which lime has deposited, is most readily cleansed by hydrochloric acid. The same is true of oxide of zinc when used in a mortar for making ointments.

A mortar, after zinc ointment has been prepared in it, if washed ever so much with soap and water, still causes a little water dropped into it to run into globules, snowing the presence of zinc or other substance in the mortar. A few drops of muriatic acid dropped into it will remedy this, forming chloride of zinc, a very soluble salt.

Nitric acid will best cleanse a vessel that has contained lead solutions, as the other acids form insoluble lead compounds. Carbonate of soda put into fish-oil or cod-liver-oil bottles, and allowed to stand a few hours, will cleanse them perfectly. A solution of crude potash is an excellent thing to keep on hand, as it is to be preferred to alcohol, ether, benzine, or chloroform, in cleaning vessels that have contained resins, such as liquid styrax, tolu, benzoin, and all dirt of a resinous character; it is also useful in cleaning vessels which have contained Prussian blue. Alcohol is useful in removing chlorophyll. For ether and chloroform I have no use, as they are too volatile and too expensive.

Hot water for grease is not to be recommended, because it is not handy to get, and it only melts the grease, and causes it to float on its surface, and when the water is poured out of the vessel the fat will still adhere to its sides, and have to be washed off with soap and water. Turpentine is useful in removing tar, wax, or resin. I never have had enough success with ammonia to recommend it. It destroys paint if put on counters or shelving, and makes windows look smeary. The only thing it is good for is to neutralize acids that may have fallen on clothing. Oxalic acid will temporarily remove tannate of iron stains. Use whiting, or better, precipitated chalk on your plated show cases, and rottenstone on brass work. A chamois skin is good to brighten up things with, but a new one scratches, and an old one, if washed, is hard and stiff.

And now we come to the last, but not least important, and that is the hands; all the above solvents and detergents will do for the hands if used in moderation, and then immediately removed with clear water. (A. WetterstrSm.)