Ices are of 3 classes, viz.: cream, custard, and water. These derive their names from the bases of which they are composed, the flavouring matter giving a second definition thus, "raspberry cream" and "raspberry water"; but custard ices are not so particularly defined as the others by the bases, and only receive the name of the flavour.
1 qt. cream, 8 oz. sweet almonds, 2 oz. bitter almonds, 12 oz. sugar, 2 oz. orange flower water; blanch the almonds, and pound quite fine in a mortar, using the orange-flower water to prevent their oiling; rub through a sieve, and pound again the portion which has not passed through, until fine enough; mix with the cream, and make into a custard with 7 yolks of eggs; strain, and when cold, freeze.
Pare and core some fine apples, cut in pieces into a preserving pan with sufficient water for them to float, boil until reduced to a marmalade, strain; to 1 pint apple-water add i pint syrup, juice of a lemon, and a little water; when cold freeze.
24 fine ripe apricots, 1 qt. cream, 12 oz. sugar, the juice of 2 lemons, with a few of the kernels blanched; mash the apricots, rub through a sieve, mix, and freeze.
(2) From Jam
12 oz. jam, 1 qt. cream, the juice of 2 lemons, 8 oz. sugar, a few kernels or bitter almonds blanched and pounded fine; rub the whole through a sieve, and freeze.
18 or 20 fine ripe apricots, 1/2 pint syrup, 1/2 pint water, juice of 2 lemons. Mash the apricots, pass through a sieve, mix the pulp with the syrup, water and lemon-juice, break the stones, blanch the kernels, pound fine with a little water, pass through a sieve, add to the mixture, and freeze.
Same proportions as currants (1). Soften fresh barberries by boiling in the syrup you intend to use, or put in a stewpan, and stir over the fire until tender; pass through a sieve, mix, and freeze as raspberry. Barberries require no lemon-juice.
Crumble some Savoy biscuits and a few ratafias, add the rind of 2 lemons rubbed on sugar, and mix with the cream when frozen.
Make 1 qt. custard for ice, crumble a piece of brown bread quite fine, put on a tin, and dry just inside the mouth of the oven, or in a very hot stove; freeze the cream, and when the bread is cold, work or stir it in.
As filbert (2).
To 1 qt. custard for ice put into a stewpan 4 oz. powdered sugar; place by the side of. the stove, or over the fire to melt and burn fine brown, stirring constantly; when the proper colour, mix the custard quickly with it; when cold, freeze.
2 lb. cherries, 1 qt. cream, 12 oz. sugar or syrup; pound the cherries, with the stones, in a mortar, adding a few ripe gooseberries or currants, pass the pulp through a sieve, add the cream and sugar, juice of 2 lemons and a little cochineal, mix and freeze. From preserved fruit it is made the same way, adding a little noyau, or a few bitter almonds pounded for the flavour of the kernel.
2 lb. cherries (Kentish or May-Duke), 4 oz. ripe gooseberries, 1 pint syrup, 1/2 pint water, juice of 2 lemons; pound the cherries with the stones in a mortar, pass the juice of the fruit through a sieve, mix the syrup and water with it, and freeze; if it should not freeze sufficiently, add a little more water.
As filbert, taking off husks and skin*.
(1) 1 qt. cream, 5 oz. Mocha coffee, 12 oz. sugar; roast the coffee in a coarse iron or other stewpan, keeping constantly stirred until a good brown colour, throw into the custard cream whilst quite hot, and cover closely; let it infuse for an hour or two, then strain and freeze. (2) With an infusion of coffee, thus: take the quantity of coffee, freshly roasted and ground to fine powder; put into a glass bottle, and pour on sufficient cold river water to moisten the powder and make an infusion; stop the bottle close and let remain all night; next day, filter the infusion by passing through fine lawn or blotting paper placed in a glass funnel; by this process a very strong and superior infusion is obtained, which contains all the aroma of the coffee. Use for flavouring the custard, and freeze.
Cream ices are composed of cream, or 3/4 cream and 1/4 milk, with the juice or pulp of fresh or preserved fruit, and syrup or sugar so blended that the taste of one may not predominate over another; but if either is in excess, it should be the fruit.
(1) From fresh fruit. 1} pint ripe currants, 1/2 pint raspberries, 1 qt. cream, the juice of 2 lemons, and 12 oz. sugar. Mix as raspberry. (2) Preserved fruit. The same proportions as raspberry, using either jam or jelly.
2 lb. ripe currants, 8 oz. raspberries and ripe cherries, 1 pint syrup, the juice of 2 lemons and 1 pint water. Pick and mash the fruit, strain through a sieve, add the syrup and water, put in the ice-pot, and freeze.
1 qt. cream, 6 eggs, 12 oz. powdered loaf sugar, break the eggs into a stewpan, and whisk together; add the cream and sugar; when well mixed, place on the fire, and continue stirring from the bottom with the whisk, to prevent burning, until it gets thick; take from the fire, continue to stir for a few minutes, and pass through a sieve. If the custard be suffered to boil, it will curdle.
These resemble cream ices, with the addition of 6 eggs to each qt. of cream, or 8 if part milk is used. All kinds of nuts, liqueurs, essences, infusions, or biscuits, are principally mixed with it.