First purchase about 16 ft. of 3/4-in. pine, about 1 ft. wide, and a plank of good sound beech, 3 ft. long, 7 in. wide, 2 in. thick at one end, and running off to 1/2 in. thick at the other. Be particular as to the quality and soundness of the wood; it must be thoroughly well seasoned; and, in order to ensure its being thoroughly dry, kept in a warm room - but not too near a fire - for some weeks before being worked upon.

While the wood is drying, procure your vibrators or reeds, from any harmonium-builder. Buy a good set of 54 notes, C C in the bass to F in the treble, being 4 1/2 octaves. Price of reeds run from 12s. 25s. a set, according to quality; reeds can be purchased, together with leather for the bellows, and all other requisite*, of Willis, 29 Minories. Also purchase thescrews (about 15 dozen) for screwing the reeds to the sound-board. See that the reeds are well riveted, or they will soon get slack, and cause much trouble. Fig. 192 is anelevation of the ends of the case: a, block or cheek; b, ledge; c, bottom block; d, groove for front panel. Fig. 193 shows under side of boards to carry feeders; Fig. 194, valve boards for feeders; Fig. 195, shape of pieces for sides of feeder; Fig. 196, shape (*) of pieces for ends of feeder; Fig. 197, pair of ribs (black line at top shows where linen is glued on). Fig. 198 illus-trates the arrangement of the interior: a, feeders; b, reservoirs; c, wind-chest; d, spiral springs; e, supports for crank; f, cranks; g, cords for connecting ends of crank levers to foot-boards; A, wind-trunks; i, blocks or cheeks; j, safety valve; k, peg to open valve.

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Fig. 194

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Fig. 196.

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Fig. 197.

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Fig. 198.

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The Com

The case must be got ready first, as the bellows and other parts are fitted to and supported by it. a wood may be pine, oak, mahogany, walnut, or rosewood. First make the ends, 2 ft. 7 in. high, about 12 in. wide in the narrowest part, and 1/2 in. thick. The top portion, to a depth of 7 in., projects about 2 in. at the front. This wider portion must be thickened by glueing and screwing a prepared block, 2 in. thick, on to the inside. The bottom part should also be blocked out to the same thickness, and 3 in. in depth. These blocks need not be solid, but may be made of 3/4-in. stuff, and then veneered over where they will be in sight. An ornamental truss may be placed nnder the front of the top block, or cheek, or a turned pillar may run from the under side of the top block to the top of the bottom one, which will form a base for it. Now glue and screw a ledge of wood, 3/4 in. wide and 3 in, deep, to each end, to support the bellows. These ledges, as also the cheeks, should not extend right across the end, but to within 1/2 in. of the back, so as to allow V the dust panel, or back, to be fitted in.

A glance at Figs. 192 and 198 will explain these operations.

Prepare a panel of |-in. stuff for the front, 3 ft. 3 in. long, and 2 ft. high, with an opening cut in the bottom part, 1 ft. 8 in. long, and 8 in. high, to allow the feet to be placed on the foot-boards. This panel is let into the under side of the cheeks or blocks, about J in.

Prepare a board 4 in. wide, 3 ft. 4 in. long, and 1 in. thick, and screw it at the bottom of the lower blocks, so that it may come right to the front, and lie flat on the floor. This is the foundation-board, on which the footboards for blowing will be hinged.

Take 2 boards, 3 ft. 3 in. long, and fix one to the top cheeks at the back, and one at the bottom.

Proceed to fit up the interior of the case. First prepare 2 boards, 3 ft. 2 in. long, 11 in. wide, and at least 3/4 in. thick, to carry the feeders and reservoir. Plane them very true and smooth, then cut 2 holes in each, 6 in. long and 1 in. wide, at a distance of 3 in. from each end. Fig. 193 shows the under side of the board to carry the feeders, with. 2 spiral springs fitted to it, and the holes cut in it for the wind-trunks. The springs are to cause the feeder to open when released from the pressure of the foot, and are termed "gape-springs." They may be made by cutting an ordinary spiral chair-spring in half, and. placing each half in the position shown.


The feeders next claim attention. The under or valve boards are each 1 ft. 4 in. long, 10 1/2 in. wide, and 3/4 in thick. Bore 4 holes, 1 1/2 in. diameter, through them, as shown in Fig. 194. These holes are to be covered by valves, which must be made as follows : - Glue 2 thicknesses of leather together (soft side outwards), leaving one 1 in. wider than the other; place them between 2 flat boards to dry, then cut them to size, and glue the single thickness down to the valve-board, thus forming a hinge to the valve. The valves may each be made to cover 2 holes, so that only 2 valves will be needed for each feeder. They should be 3/4 in. larger all round than the holes which they cover.


The valve-boards are next hinged on to the feeder-board, and for this purpose a strip of 3/8-in. wood, 1 1/2 in. wide, is to be glued and screwed on to the under side of the feeder-board, and a similar strip on to the inside end of the valve-board. The valve-board may be hinged either with brass butt-hinges, or a strip of leather inside and out. Many prefer the latter mode, as there is no liability to squeak.


The folds of the feeder may now be got out of 1/4-in. board. You will require 8 pieces like Fig. 195 for the sides, and 4 pieces like Fig. 196 for the ends. The ends of each fold are cut to an angle of about 40°. Set these out very carefully, as it is important that they should be accurately made, or the feeders will be the source of constant annoyance and trouble. Procure some very soft, supple, white sheepskin, and cut it into strips (lengthways from the neck), about 1 1/4 in. wide. Cut some strips of linen, about 1 1/2 in. wide, across the stuff. Stand each pair of ribs side by side, with their short edges about 3/16 in. apart, which you may secure by placing a strip of stout cardboard between them, and glue a strip of linen over the edges, as shown in Fig. 197. The linen will thus be on the inside when the folds are attached to the feeders. Let this dry, and then glue a strip of leather on the other side of the joint, grain side outwards. Then glue similar strips on the outside of the top and bottom edges, so that half the width of the leather overhangs all round.