Notice all the notches which were marked lightly with pencil, and follow all the steps carefully:

1. Place the two back portions so that they join the front as the notches indicate.

2. Pin from the top of the gores.

3. Baste the three gores together with 1/2-inch seams, beginning at the bottom. Can you tell why?

4. Sew the seams on the wrong side, using the stitching stitch. The back seam is to be left open five inches at the top for the placket opening.

5. Overcast all the seam edges, overcasting the two thicknesses of the seams together.

6. Turn hems at the bottom of the skirt. First, turn 1/4 inch; second, turn two inches. Baste carefully, laying little plaits neatly where necessary on account of extra fullness. Always have the seams of the turned hem lie on seams of skirt. Sew hem with hemming stitch or featherstitch (see page 120).

7. Finish placket opening. On right side make 1/2-inch hem, the first turn 1/8 and second 1/2 inch. Turn hem to inside of skirt. Baste and hem. On left side of opening make hem 1/4 inch finished. Make first turn 1/8 and second 1/4 inch. Baste and hem neatly. 8. To put the skirt on the band :

A. Cut band. Take waist measure; add to it one inch for lapping and two inches for the turnings, one at each end of band. Cut band lengthwise of the muslin, with the warp threads, and twice the desired width finished plus 1/2 inch for turnings.

B. Gather petticoat 1/4 inch from edge, with two gathering threads one below the other. Divide skirt in half; gather from center front to back at right side, and from center front to back at left side.

C. Turn in ends of band one inch. Pin center of band to center front of petticoat, right side of band to right side of petticoat. Pin so that the edge of band is even with the gathered edge of skirt. Pin ends of band to the gathered back portions of skirt, with ends of bands to ends of gathers. Turn gathers towards worker, and distribute in same manner as when attaching yoke of apron to the apron skirt. Baste J inch from edge of band, and between the two rows of gathering stitches. Sew with stitching stitch. Turn band over to wrong side. Turn in 1/4 inch. Baste and hem flat. Overhand the turned-in ends of the band neatly. D. Finish with buttonhole and button at back, or with two buttonholes, to button to waist. If the skirt is to be attached in this way, a buttonhole should be made in the center front of the band also. This should be up and down in the band.

The girls of Pleasant Valley had a surprise party, when the aprons were finished, and went to the Fresh Air Home. This was in June before school closed. Some of the summer children had arrived. The girls made cookies at home and had a real party with the children.

Exercises And Problems

1. Tell how the putting on of the skirt band differs from putting on the apron yoke.

2. Do you know of any other kind of placket finish besides the one which you have made in the skirt? Tell where you have seen it.

Review Problems

I. Can you make a useful bag on which the following stitches might be used: basting, running, hemming, stitching stitch, over-handing, buttonhole?

II. Plan another article, using as many of these stitches as possible, and cutting the article from a pattern. Try to make this at home for school credit. Miss James of Pleasant Valley has a kind of score card which she uses in marking the girls. Perhaps your teacher will give you credit for your home work.

Score Card

Girl"s name----------------------------------------

I. Article___________________________

A. General appearance

1. General neatness of sewing...... 10 %

2. Cleanliness........... 15%

3. Appropriateness of material..... 25%

B. Hand work

1. Regularity of stitches ....... . 25 %

2. Suitability of stitches...... . . 25 %