This section is from the book "Clothing And Health. An Elementary Textbook Of Home Making", by Helen Kinne. Also available from Amazon: Clothing And Health.
The girls of Pleasant Valley have had so much practice that the petticoat will not be a difficult task. Do you think you will find it easy too ?
Mollie Stark is delighted to make the petticoat, for she needs one to wear under the new dotted Swiss dress that mother made for her birthday. She saw in the "Pleasant Valley News" that there will be an unusual sale of Hamburg edgings; and she thinks she will go to town and see if it is something she can use. Miss James told the girls that Hamburg edging which is full of holes and in which the pattern is poor and poorly embroidered, is not worth buying. The edge is usually very weak and pulls out after one or two washings. The Hamburg edging called "blind embroidery" has no holes and is likely to be firmer.
Let us study briefly how the petticoats are to be made:
1. Cutout. Follow pattern, placing economically. Allow extra for hem, if necessary, and one inch for receiving tuck under which the ruffle will be placed. Fold pieces left over; they will be needed.
2. Pin and baste gores. Be careful to match notches - front, then side gore at each side, then back gore at each side of side gore, five in all. Pin from top down. Baste from bottom up with bias edge towards worker. Holding thus prevents stretching.
3. Make French seams by machine.
4. Make hem on bottom. Baste a two or three inch hem as planned. Stitch. Sometimes dust ruffles of the same cloth or of lawn are placed on the bottom of the skirt instead of a hem. They are made about 3 or 4 inches wide and cut across warp of cloth. The skirt is then cut 3 or 4 inches shorter, and the ruffle makes the length by being added at bottom under a tuck 3/8 inch wide. This ruffle has 1/2 inch hem on the bottom edge and is sewed to skirt with a seam on the right side. The tuck is made directly above it and is stitched flat to cover the raw edges. A hem at the bottom is enough, and is suitable for young girls, when a ruffle is to be added above for decoration and fullness.
5. Prepare tuck on skirt for ruffle. Measure from bottom of skirt depth of ruffle. At that point make a tuck 3/8 inch deep. Baste and stitch. This must be same distance from the bottom of skirt all the way around, and on the right side of skirt. It is not always necessary to use a tuck. A bias band can be used instead or a beading to cover the raw edges of the ruffle.
6. Prepare ruffle. This may be of lawn with edge hemmed and decorated with featherstitch, or it may be of Hamburg edging or of same material with scalloped edge (see page 142). A ruffle of the same material with a simple \ inch hem may also be used. The width of ruffle is half as full again as the width of skirt. The depth can be 5-10 inches as desired. Divide ruffle in quarters, and gather.
7. To join ruffle to skirt. Divide skirt in quarters. Pin quartered ruffle in place. Draw up gathering threads to fit skirt. Wind thread around pins to hold. Baste. If a receiving tuck has been made, turn it down over the raw edge of ruffle and baste and stitch on very edge of tuck. If a tuck has not been made, baste over the raw edges of ruffle a band of finishing braid or beading or a bias strip of the same cloth as the skirt, 3/8 inch wide; stitch on both edges.
8. To make placket. Use straight strip 2 inches wide. Start at waist line, right of strip to right of skirt. Sew all around placket opening. Stitch. Turn to wrong side. Hem down by hand. Lap at bottom of opening so it lies flat. Backstitch across the bottom with a slanting line of stitches. This makes a flat back with no fullness and is called a bound placket.
9. To finish top of skirt. Cut bias strip of cloth about one inch wide; sew to right side. Turn over to wrong side even with top; turn so as to be 1/2 inch wide finished; stitch on edge, flat. Lap skirt in back with three buttonholes, one at waist and two below in placket lap.
1. Calculate how much ruffling of Hamburg edging will be needed for a skirt z\ yards around.
2. Get samples of embroidery and pin to the Bulletin Board, where all the girls may see them.
3. Practice making a receiving tuck.
4. See if you can plan a section of a dust ruffle for a petticoat. Make the skirt part of brown paper with tissue for the ruffle.