First, we shall lay the pattern. Some girls have probably chosen serge for their bloomers, and some have ordered galatea or sateen. The black or the blue are serviceable. Suppose you cut them out to-day. You have studied the pattern which your teacher had. Perhaps some girls will find it necessary to add in length or width. Your teacher ordered the pattern by size, according to age. 14-year size was chosen. Perhaps you must make yours smaller or larger. One pattern can be adapted to the whole class. This you allowed for, in ordering the amount of cloth. Let us place the pattern carefully. Be sure that the perforations which indicate lengthwise of the material are placed on the warp. Can you cut out both legs at the same time? Can you tell where to place the two strips for the bands, and for the placket facings? Which way of the material will the length of band and facings be cut? Pin carefully in place and cut with an even motion. It will perhaps be safer to mark the notches with a pencil or with a white thread. Girls sometimes forget - cut the notches too large and spoil the cloth.

Then we shall learn to make a flat felled seam.

The two legs are to be sewed up on the right side. Be very careful not to make both legs for the same leg.

That is the mistake Marjorie Allen made. Baste the seam 1/2 inch wide. Then stitch close to the basting.

Fig. 119.   The flat fell, showing the three steps in making: A, the seam stitched; B, one edge cut; C, the turning of the other edge flat, to be basted and stitched.

Fig. 119. - The flat fell, showing the three steps in making: A, the seam stitched; B, one edge cut; C, the turning of the other edge flat, to be basted and stitched.

Cut off one edge of this seam to within 1/8 inch of the stitching, and lay the other edge of seam flat on the cloth for the fell. Turn in the raw edge, baste, and stitch flat. This must be done very carefully, for it is very easy to make a fell which is wrinkled and full instead of flat (see Fig. 119).

Join the two legs together at the center with the same flat fell. Be sure to have the two leg seams come together. This is important.

The placket openings lie over the hip. A single strip may be used to bind this opening, or a regular placket may be made according to your pattern. If a strip is used, cut it lengthwise of the cloth and one inch longer than twice the length of placket opening. If cut 2 1/2 inches wide, the finished facing will be one inch in width. Place the right side of the strip to the right side of the bloomers. Baste 1/4 inch seams, holding strip all around the placket opening; and then stitch. Turn to the wrong side, turn in 1/4 inch and baste, stitch again. Care must be taken at the bottom of the placket opening to make the seam of sufficient width so that it will not pull out.

At the bottom of each leg make a hem, one inch wide finished. Stitch, leaving one inch open. This is the opening for the elastic band. Run in the elastic before completing the hem by hand.

Now we are ready for the bands. There is one for the front and one for the back. If your pattern allows for fullness, gather to fit 1/2 of your waist measure. It will be necessary to measure your bands and to allow the two inches for lapping on the back band. The front band is usually shorter than the back. Fasten the bloomers so that they lap towards the front.

To put on the band, work in the same way as in putting on the apron or petticoat band, except the band is turned to the right side for tailor finish on a garment with flat fells. Begin by placing the right side of the band to the inside of the front, and also back of the bloomer portions. Baste, stitch, turn to the right side. Snaps may be used, or buttons and buttonholes, for closing. Buttonholes can also be placed at the center front and at the back of the bands, if the bloomers are to be fastened to a waist. How shall the buttonholes be placed in cutting for fastening in this way? Do you think it is very difficult to make the bloomers? The girls who use serge can make the placket facings and bands of silk or sateen or some lining material which will be thinner. Only the most experienced Pleasant Valley girls used the serge -those who had sewed at home.

Exercises And Problems

1. What are the important things to remember in cutting out the bloomers ?

2. How does the band of the bloomers differ from that put on the petticoat ?