Age : 12-14 Years

Skirt Type forms the base of this lesson. Waistbands may be straight or shaped. Method. - (1) A straight waistband consists in a strip cut selvedge wise, 1 inch to 2 inches in depth; doubled ; top-sewn at the ends and hemmed or machined on to the gathered skirt or bodice (Diags. 85, 86).

(2) A shaped band may merely consist of strips, cut on the bias or cross, and joined together to form a false hem. This is placed to the edge of the skirt at the waist on the right side, machined, then turned over to the wrong side and machined on the right side along by the tacking stitch.

To avoid the doubling in of the cloth, it is advisable to machine a row at the top of the skirt.

Insert a draw string at the back from the seam next to the back one.

Diag. 85.

Diag. 86.

(3) Another way is to make a circular band. (This is incidentally the Type for the one-piece skirt.)

The band should be cut out first in ordinary newspaper. Take the length of waist rather loosely - say 24 inches. (One band and its lining can be cut out of } yard.) Fold this length into two, selvedge wise, and from the top folded corner describe one quarter of a circle with the half length as radius. Measure in from the open top corner the depth of waistband, 4 inches to 5 inches, and describe a parallel curve (Diag. 87).

Slope sufficient, say from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch, at the back of the band to allow for the spring of the back.

In narrowing or deepening the band, alter always by the bottom of the band.

Foot Finishings

(1) By folding in the raw edges and hemming or machining. Note that all seams - sew and fell, run and fell, machining, etc. - should match when folded over at the end of seams, and should not be pulled out of position on the inner side and sewn clumsily (Diag. 88),

Diag. 87. Diag. 88.

(2) Straight foot bands are applied in exactly the same way as straight waistbands - hemmed, machined, or chain stitched, according to the purpose of the article made.

(3) Shaped flounces and frills form another method of finishing the end of seams in garments and household articles.

The principle is exactly the same as for the shaped circular waistband.

(4) Crossway bands and tucks.