Age : 12-14 Years
In the graded types, leading up to 14 years of age, drawers, knickers, and all such divided garments come last, because they have been a later development of clothes in all civilizations, whether as trousers, pantaloons or pantelets.
(1) Best of all, start with a pilch (baby's drawers) (Diags. 106, io6a), where the garment is practically all seat and no leg.
This can be made out of one half-yard flannel, shaped very slightly for the leg, button-holed or bound; gathered and set in into a straight waist band. Bands made of calico are less clumsy and do not shrink like flannel.
(2) Next take the child of six years, when the seat becomes a little less in proportion to the leg as it lengthens, i.e. three-quarters seat, approximately, to one-quarter leg (Diag. 107).
As the motion or action of the leg in relation to the proportion bears a similarity, three-quarters is allowed for the width of the leg (Diag. 107).
The middle of the back should be a little to the outside of the line drawn upwards from the leg width and gradually sloped down to the middle of the front to allow for the bending of the body.
The curve for the seat and the almost straight line across the front, finish the cutting out.
This may be made up in calico, nainsook, flannelette, wincey, union, flannel, etc.
Intelligence and the quality of alertness is stimulated and developed in this case by the girl having to note carefully (1) The pairing of right and left leg.
(2) The facing of seams.
(3) If the foot finishing have tucks, extra length must be allowed to each leg of the selected type.
(4) The type for the girl of fourteen years becomes still less in the seat, and consequently longer in the leg, i.e. two-thirds seat approximately to one-third leg.
Again remembering the anatomical similarity of proportion and motion, two-thirds is allowed for the width of the leg (Diag. 108).
The middle points, back and front, are decided as in the previous lesson, allowing gradually greater slope from the child period to the full-grown period.
The curves for the seat and the almost straight lines along the front are shaped as in the previous lesson.
(5) In the normal woman's size the seat and leg are equal in proportion, and as there is very little appreciable difference between the action of the 14-year-old girl and the adult, the width allowed for the action is the same in each type, i.e. two-thirds for the width of the leg.
Diag. 109. If a circular band be used, the depth of the band should be cut off the top of the paper pattern before cutting out in the material, to allow for the shaped band going on.
Diag. no illustrates the women's type without straight or shaped band, but fitted by means of darts, crossway strip and draw strings, at the waist, and by a flounce at the foot finishing, which may be simply machined at the edge, gathered and set in, or decorated with one or other of the many kinds of stitchery now at the disposal of the girl. Diag. III shows child's drawers buttoned to a bodice.
A. Drawers for child of six
B. Drawers for girl of twelve Or Fourteen
C. Drawers for a woman
Diag. 110. Diag. 111