Drawers are divided skirts. The materials used in nightgowns, such as muslin, cambric, longcloth, cotton crepe, nainsook, etc., may be used for drawers.
Drawers are made in various ways. They may be open or closed, wide or narrow, or may be made in bloomer fashion, but no matter which style is chosen, the fundamental principles of drafting the pattern are always the same.
The legs are finished in many different ways. Embroidery, beading, insertion, and crochet edges are greatly used. Very often drawers are finished with a plain hem only.
The top of the drawers is finished with a straight or a fitted belt. Sometimes it is finished with a plain hem. This may be made of an applied facing which may be cut on the straight or on the bias of the material. A rubber is often drawn through this hem. Rubber should not be used in white goods as the boiling necessary in laundering will spoil it.
1. The length should be taken from the waistline to the knee. The same length is obtained by measuring from the center of the back along the extended arm to the wrist.
FIG. 44. - Closed Drawers or "Bloomers"
A, Extended part of band, turned under to reinforce the end; B, folded placket over back part of drawers; C, rein forcing seat: D, ruffle extended from length of drawers; E, drawers gather at the knee by means of a linen tape.
2. The hip measure should be taken loosely over the largest part of the hips. The bust measure may be used instead of the hip measure. The width of each leg at the seat line should be nearly equal to the bust measure.
3. The waist measure should also be taken loosely.
4. The knee measure must be taken if a band is used.
Fig. 45. - Open Drawers
A, Two darts take in the fullness in the front: B, edge of drawers faced with garment bias facing; C, ruffle sewed on with a receiving tuck.
Hip measure 40", waist measure 26", length 23".
Drafting the Pattern
1. Cut a piece of paper 36" wide and 30" long.
2. Fold this paper lengthwise through the center and place it lengthwise, with the fold at your left and the cut edge at your right. AB Mark A on the upper left-hand corner and on the folded edge of the paper.
Fig. 46. - Closed Drawers
A, Flat fell seam; B, French seam; C, shaped hem: D, continuous placket
Mark B on the lower left-hand corner. The fold AB represents the hip line of the drawers on the straight and fold of the material.
AC Mark AC on the upper cut edge and BD on the lower cut edge.
AE From A on the AB line, measure 4 3/4" and locate E.
EF From E, draw a line 1/4 of the entire hip measure plus 2", and locate F.
FG From F, draw a line 17" long and parallel to the CD line, and locate G. This line indicates the crotch, or the side line.
Fig. 47. - Draft of Drawers
EH From E on the AB line, draw a line 17" long and locate H.
HI From H, draw a line 18" long and parallel to the AC line, and locate I. This line indicates the seat line and the width of the drawers. EB From E, draw a line 23" long, and locate
J. This indicates the hip line and the length of the drawers. JK From J, draw a line 12" or 15" long and parallel to the AC line and locate K. The width of the bottom is optional as it depends on the type of drawers. IK Connect I and K by a straight line. Find the middle between I and K, and locate L. LR Connect I and K again, curving this line
1/2" at L. FM From F on the FG line, measure down 1", and locate M. MN From M, measure 1" parallel to the AC line, and locate N. NF Connect N and E by a straight line.
Mark this line "front waistline." FO From F, draw a line upward 4" long and parallel to the CD line, and locate 0. OE Connect O and E by a straight line and mark this line "back waistline." OI Connect O and I by a straight line. This line forms the center back seam. IP From I, measure 2 1/2" on the IH line, and locate P.
PP2 From P measure 2 1/2" upward parallel to the CD line, and locate P2.
IN Connect N and I by a curved line, curving it at the point P2. (See Fig. 47.) To obtain this line use the curve of your chart which is marked neck curve.
EX From E on the AB line, draw a line 8" long, and locate X. This line indicates the place for the placket.
KR If the drawers are to be finished with a hem then turn the hem on the JK line on to the pattern and cut the point R to follow the line KLI. (See Figs. 46 c and 47.)
JSS If the drawers are to be open and rounded at the lower hip line measure on each edge from J 2 1/2" and draw a diagonal of 1" from the corner J, and locate V.
SVS Connect SVS by a curved line.
OW From O, draw a line 2" long and locate W. Connect W and O by a straight line.
WI Connect WI by a straight line. This will allow more fullness for open drawers. Cut out the pattern: (See Fig. 47.)
1. Along the back waistline marked EO.
2. Around the back seam OI.
3. Around the curved leg ILK.
4. Around the bottom KJ. Unfold the paper and then cut:
1. The side seam IN.
2. The front waistline NE.
Parts of the closed drawers: The drawers consist of two pieces for the legs, one piece of material 19" by 2" for the front belt, one piece of material 13" by 2" for the back belt, two pieces of material 17" by 2" for the plackets, four pieces of material for reinforcing the crotch. Each piece forms 1/4 of a circle and measures 4 1/2" at the two longer edges and 2 1/2" through the middle.
Placing the pattern on the material and cutting out the drawers: (See Fig. 48). The finish for the bottom of the drawers must be decided upon before the pattern is placed on the material. Decide if the drawers should be finished with a hem, a ruffle, lace or embroidery. If there is to be a ruffle determine whether it is to be of a different or of the same material. (See Figs. 44, 45.) Be sure of the finished length before the material is cut out and whether you must cut off, or allow on the pattern.
If the instructions are carefully followed for cutting out, all the pieces that are required for the drawers will be obtained from the amount stated above.