The corset cover is a garment worn by every girl. Sometimes it is used in combination with a petticoat, sometimes in combination with a chemise or drawers. No matter how it is used,
Fig. 77. - Corset Cover Finished with a Band at the Waistline
Fig. 78. - Corset Cover Finished with a "Peplum" at the Waistline the shirtwaist pattern may always be used. The only difference is that the corset cover is cut out deeper around the back and the front neck. The shoulder seam in the corset cover near the armhole is ordinarily from 1" to 1 1/2" wide. This width varies according to the trimming.
The material which is used for undergarments such as muslin, longcloth, cambric, and nainsook, may be used for the corset cover. The choice of material and the trimming should depend upon the wear the garment will have.
Fig. 70. - French Underwear with Valenciennes Lacks and Insertions
For everyday wear, good strong muslin, long-cloth, or cambric are the most durable materials. Use only such trimming as will outwear the material. Flimsy laces and ribbons should be worn only on rare occasions. (Fig. 79.)
Adapting the Shirt Waist Pattern to the Corset Cover
Do not cut up the shirt waist pattern. Cut out another one and on this one cut out the back and the front neck. (See Fig. 80.)
WS Measure from W 1 1/2" on the WU line and locate S. LI From L on the LI line, measure 3 l/2", and locate I. Connect S and I by a curved line
Fig. 80.— Draft for Corset Cover and I and L by a straight line. Repeat the same in the back. QS From Q on the QN line, measure 1 1/2", and locate S2.
KI From K on the KO line, measure 3 1/4", and locate I2.
Connect I2 and S2 by a curved line and I2 and K by a straight line.
Cut out the back and front neck along these lines.
Ordinarily the front is cut out 1" lower than the back.
Before cutting away the material, decide on the trimming and on the finish of the neck and the armseyes.
The neck may be cut square or round.
Parts of the Corset Cover
Back piece, 2 front pieces, 1 belt.
30" of 27" material will make a corset cover for an average person, and a piece 15" by 8" will be left. The same length will be needed if 36" material is used and there will be twice as much left. It is, therefore, more economical to cut two corset covers, as one length of 50" will make 2 corset covers, or three, as 64" will make three corset covers. There are enough pieces from which the bands may be cut.
Placing the Pattern on the Material (See Fig. 81.)
Tracing the Pattern on the Material and Cutting the Corset Cover
With the tracing wheel, trace all around each part of the pattern. Be sure to trace around the center front line. No seams are allowed on the pattern; therefore, allow 1/4" seam all around except at the front. Here 1" to 2" must be allowed, according to the front closing. In cutting out two or more corset covers, pin the pieces for each garment together carefully.
The fronts may be finished by making a plain 3/4" hem on both the right and the left side, a box pleat, or an invisible closing.
The first method is so simple that it does not need any explanation. The second method is explained in the making of the shirt waist. The third method, on account of the transparent waists which are being worn at the present time, is preferred now. No button or buttonholes show in this method of closing.
Making the Invisible Closing
I. Right Side Front
1. Along the marked center front on the right side of the front piece, measure 1/2" toward the front edge.
Fig. 81. - Corset Cover Pattern. Three covers can be made from 63 inches of material
2. Draw a thread at this point. Fold the extending material towards the inside and crease the fold well.
3. Turn a 3/4" hem on the left side and crease this well.
4. Cut a piece of material 1 3/4" wide and the length of the front of the corset cover.
5. Fold this piece through the center lengthwise and crease it well. This is the piece (called the fly) which will be put under the hem. The buttonholes will be cut in this piece.
6. Slip the cut edges of this piece under the hem of the front just turned.
7. Let this piece extend 1/10" less than the width of the hem. It will be turned on to the hem and must not extend beyond it.
8. Baste the fly and the hem to the corset cover.
II. Left Side Front
Turn the hem on the left side 1/8" narrower than the one on the right side. The right side overlaps the left side and no stitches of this hem should be visible. Crease, pin, or baste the front hems only. The stitching should be done after the corset cover has been fitted. Side Seam (French Seam)
1. Pin the back to the front with the wrong sides together.
2. Begin at the waistline and make sure that the tracing indicating the back waistline and the tracing indicating the front waistline meet accurately.
3. Then put a few pins at right angles to the seam. The tracing line of the front and back armseye should also meet. Pin each side seam and then stitch the first seam by machine. The second will be stitched after fitting. Pin the shoulder seam together. Cut a gathering thread at the waistline.