Putting the Buttonholes on the Waist
The buttonholes are put in between the front edges of the right side front in groups of three. Leave 1/4" between the buttonholes. The first group should come exactly below the opening of the neck of the collar. Place the second group 3" below the first group. The length of the buttonhole depends on the size of the button.
Finishing the Bottom of the Shirt Waist The bottom of the shirt waist may be finished with a rubber, by sewing the shirt waist into a band, by sewing a waist band to the shirt waist and having the bottom extend below.
1. First Method
(a) Make a 3/4" hem all around the bottom of the shirt waist.
(b) Cut a rubber 1/2" wide and 2" smaller than the waist measure.
(c) Draw the rubber through the hem.
(d) Fasten the ends of the rubber securely into the hem at each end. Stitch the ends and the rubber several times.
(e) Find the center of the rubber and the center back of the waist and stitch through this place several times.
2. Second Method
The band may be made out of any remnants of muslin and may be pieced several times. The width is optional. The finished band may be 1", 2", or 2 1/2" wide.
(a) Cut a band twice the desired width plus 1/4" for turning under, and the length of the waist measure plus 4".
(b) Prepare the band according to the directions given.
(c) In sewing the band to the waist, follow the directions given for the sewing apron.
3. Third Method
(a) Use either a 3/4" webbing or make a band out of remnants.
(b) Find the center and the balance point. Pin this band at the center back and at the marked waistline and sew the side seams.
(c) Stitch all around the band. Stitch only as far as the side seams.
(d) Leave the front of the waist loose. The waist will iron easier.
(e) Put a buttonhole and a button at the ends of the band.
Sewing on the Collar
The collar may be cut after the same pattern as the lining of the collar of the middy. The directions given for sewing on the collar may be followed with a few exceptions.
1. Stitch the collar to the waist and press the seam open.
2. Cut off the raw edges of the seam very close to the edge.
3. Take a 1/4" fine bias banding and pin this over the seam.
4. Stitch the binding to the shirt waist. Stitch it close to each edge.
5. Be careful to make neat corners.
The width of the cuff depends on the length of the sleeve. It may be 2", 2 1/2", or 3" wide. Sometimes a wide cuff may be turned over 1", thus forming a revere. The size of the cuff depends on the size of the hand. If the cuff is closed it should slip over the hand easily.
Making the Cuff
Cut the cuff twice the desired width, and the length plus the seams.
1. Pin the right side of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve. Make the seam of the cuff and the seam of the sleeve one continuous seam.
2. Pin the center of the cuff to the center of the sleeve.
3. Draw up the gathering thread until the sleeve fits the cuff.
4. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve and proceed as for sewing the band to the apron.
Press the shirt waist.
Mark the initials on the inside of the front of the belt.
Compute the cost; the time.
It is advisable to fit the waist after the shoulder seams are finished and the sleeves are put in so as to determine the length of the sleeve and the width of the underarm seam.
1. Pin the sleeve seam together. Start from the underarm seam.
2. Pin each front and back of the waist together.
3. Run a strong basting thread along the marked waistline.
Preparing the Band
1. Take a piece of muslin about 1" wide and several inches longer than the waist measure.
2. From the center measure a distance equal to one-half of the waist measure.
3. Put pins at each point thus measured.
4. Fold the band so as to find the middle of these pieces and the center of the band, and put pins at these points. This will divide the band into four equal parts.
5. From each of the center points marked by pins, measure 3/4" toward the center back of the band. Mark these points with either a pencil or a contrasting thread. The band will measure from the back toward the side 1/4 of the waist measure minus 3/4", and the side toward the front will measure 1/4 the waist measure plus 3/4". The point thus obtained is called the "balance point," and it is an important one, since all seams are laid with reference to it.
1. Draft the pattern.
2. Cut out the pattern.
3. Place and pin the pattern on the material.
4. Press the seams of the back, the front, and the sleeves of the shirt waist over the paper pattern.
5. Pin the shoulder seams together.
6. Stitch the shoulder seams together.
7. Pin the sleeves into the shirt waist.
8. Stitch the sleeves into the shirt waist.
9. Pin the seams of the sleeves and the underarm seams.
10. Draw a strong shirring thread around the traced waistline.
11. Prepare the waist band.
12. Pin the waist band around the waistline.
13. Draw up the shirring thread around the waistline to fit the band.
14. Try on the shirt waist.
15. Pin the band together in front.
16. Pin the front together.
17. Adjust the shirt waist in its proper place and look for alterations.
18. Make the necessary alterations.
19. Decide how low the neck is to be cut.
20. Decide on the front closing.
21. Decide on the width of the cuffs.
22. Make the front closing.
23. Sew on the collar.
24. Sew on the cuffs.
25. Finish the waist around the bottom.
26. Press the waist.
27. Compute the cost.
28. Figure out the time.
1. What are the required measurements for a shirt waist ?
2. How are they taken ?
3. Is it always necessary to take all of these measurements ?
4. How are the measurements of the shirt waist related to each other?
5. What width of material cuts to best advantage for the shirt waist?
6. What materials are best suited for shirt waists to be worn on different occasions?
7. What is the average amount of material required to make a shirt waist?
8. Mention different ways that a shirt waist may be finished around the neck, along the front, around the cuff, and at the bottom.
9. What short cuts can be suggested in the making of a shirt waist?
10. What seams are used in the shirt waist ?