It is important that every girl in the class should understand all types of bloomer construction. Then she will be able to make other garments at home without the help of her teacher. Two garments that are similar in construction to bloomers are pajamas and knickers. Every girl should study the description of these garments even though she does not have time to make them.

Pajamas. - The pajama suit is one garment which you might like to make at home, perhaps as an extra problem. See Fig. 60. The top part can be made with the kimono type of construction which you have already learned to do. The bottom part is made like the bloomers, except that the legs are made longer and generally left without gathering at the bottom. If you understand bloomer construction you will be able to answer these questions correctly about pajamas.

1. Could you change the gymnasium bloomer pattern or an undergarment bloomer pattern more easily into a pajama pattern? Why?

2. What two finishes might be used at the waist?

3. What finish would be most desirable at the bottom?

4. What kind of seams would you use to sew up the leg? Knickers. - A garment that is very popular with the modern girl is knickers. This garment is especially adapted to wear for hiking, for camping trips and such sports as golf or mountain climbing. For the most part they are similar in construction to bloomers. However, they are more difficult to make because of certain modifications in construction. Even though you are not experienced enough to undertake the making of a pair of knickers, you should read the following paragraphs, so that you will understand how they differ from bloomers.

The pictures in Fig. 61 show one of the differences in their construction. Picture 1 shows the bloomer pattern which you have learned to use. Picture 2 shows the knicker pattern which, you will note, has two pieces for one leg. In Picture 3 you can see how these pieces are sewed together. The last picture shows one leg of the knickers sewed together. The knicker pattern is cut in two pieces instead of one piece in order to take out fullness and make it fit the leg more closely.

Fig. 6o.

Materials

Fig. 6i.

Finish at the Top. - The fullness at the top of the bloomers is gathered into a band or held by an elastic. In the knickers this fullness is taken out so that the knickers fit smoothly around the waist. Can you tell by looking at Fig. 62 how the fullness is taken out of the knickers? If you understand the picture fold a piece of paper to show how this is done. This way of taking out fullness is called a dart. Put in pins to show where the dart would be stitched.

Finish at the Bottom. - The knickers are always finished at the knee with a wide band. This makes a much trimmer appearance than when the fullness is gathered up with an elastic.

Materials. - The knickers are generally made from a heavier and firmer material than the bloomers. Khaki is a very commonly used material that takes its name from its color. The word khaki is an East Indian word meaning "dust color." This material is always made with a twill weave. Knickers are also commonly made from cotton corduroy and wool tweed. How many of you have knickers made of one of these materials? If you decide to make a pair of knickers it will be advisable to use khaki unless you are an experienced seamstress.

Fig. 62.

Playing with Patterns. - Now that you have learned how to use two types of patterns, the bloomer pattern and the kimono pattern, it will be fun to try making up new ways of using these patterns. The pictures in Fig. 63 will give you some ideas. Every girl might keep her pattern a secret until all the patterns are finished. Then see if the other girls can guess for what the pattern was intended. Use large size notebook paper or wrapping paper. Perhaps you can cut a pattern for a garment that is not shown in the pictures.

Fig. 63.

Final Test For Bloomer Type Of Garment

This test is a final check-up on this unit of work. Review the lessons on bloomers, knickers and pajamas so that you will be ready for this test.

Part I

What is wrong in this picture?

Fig. 64.

Selvedie

Write your answers on notebook paper telling what is wrong in each picture. Make numbers which correspond to the pictures.

Part II

Cotton Cloth Crossword Puzzle

Every word in this puzzle is the name of a kind of cotton cloth that you have studied while making your kimono, nightgown, apron or bloomers. Each word will just fit into the blank spaces arranged horizontally or vertically in the puzzle. If there are too many or too few letters in your word to fit the spaces, it is not the right word. You should be able to give the right words from the descriptions given below.

Horizontal Words

1. A cotton material with a soft, fuzzy feeling.

2. A cotton material generally made with a pattern that is woven in checks, plaids or stripes.

3. A material that is of a brownish color and made with a twill weave.

4. A material made with a crinkly surface.

5. A kind of soft, light-weight underwear material.

Vertical Words

1. A kind of underwear material with a glossy finish.

2. A kind of material made with a weave that is very smooth and lustrous on the right side.

3. Material made with a twill weave which comes in various colors.

4. The first word in a kind of soft, fuzzy material used for underwear and nightgowns.

5. A material made with a stiff finish and a small printed pattern.

Part III

Finish the Sentence Test or a.........placket.

Copy these sentences, filling in the blanks with the correct word.

1. The fell seam is turned to the.........side.

2. The waistband should be cut.........of the material.

3. The placket used on the bloomers is called either a.........

4. Two ways of finishing the top of the bloomers are with a

.........or with a..........

5. The last stitching in putting on the band should be on the

.........side.

Part IV

Things to Remember Test

Make a list on notebook paper of the things that you should remember when you are:

1. Cutting the strip for the placket. 1.........

2.........

2. Cutting the opening for the placket.

1.........

2.........

3. Gathering.

1.........

2.........

4. Putting the bloomers to the band.

1.........,

2.........

3.........

5. Finishing the top of the knickers.

1.........