Turkish Toweling (Chap. I, Par. 35).
1 turkish towel, 22" wide, 48" long.
2 1/2 yards ribbon (color desired).
Rope embroidery floss to match ribbon.
A combing jacket, as its name indicates, is a small, loose garment which can be slipped on and off easily during the preparation of the toilet; many girls and women prefer it to the kimono. It should be loose and comfortable, as it is worn only in the privacy of the girl's room.
If an elaborate garment is desired, dainty shades of crepe de Chine or wash silk may be used, and many of the decorative stitches may be employed, but the art of making exquisite materials from cotton has reached a stage where we no longer have to use expensive silk to get beautiful effects. Sheer cotton material may be used and trimmed with lace, or, if a more serviceable jacket is desired, heavier cotton materials may be used.
The combing jacket in this lesson is made from a piece of toweling, it is therefore inexpensive, but when carefully and neatly completed will be found very dainty and attractive.
No. 1. This combing jacket is made of a strip of bordered silk cut like the one shown in the lesson except that the neck is rounded out instead of having the flaps turned back. The silk is joined in a seam at the back; the edges are finished with embroidered scallops. It is fastened together under the arms with bows of ribbon and in the front with two snaps over which bows of ribbon are sewed.
No. 2. This combing jacket may be cut from the pattern of a kimono night gown. It should be flared under the arms a trifle more than for the gown. The back is pointed at the bottom like the front. The neck is finished with a rolling collar. The bottoms of the sleeves and the body of the combing jacket are finished with a hem, the top of which is outlined on the outside with featherstitching. There are six eyelets worked in the edges of the front hem through which narrow ribbon is laced to hold the garment closed in front.
The size of the towel used in making this combing jacket will depend on the size of the girl for whom the jacket is made. As these towels may be purchased in different sizes, it will not be necessary to cut one narrower for the jacket. However, if desired, and the towel is long enough, the smoothly woven border usually found on the end of these towels may be cut off. In the combing jacket shown in the illustration the border on the end of the towel used for the front of the garment was cut off. When finished the jacket should be long enough to reach below the waist line in the back and front.
No pattern is required for this combing jacket. It is made by cutting the towel lengthwise in the center, a trifle more than half its length; for the neck opening, it is cut crosswise a short distance from the center toward each side near the shoulder line.
To make a jacket for a girl or woman of medium size, fold the towel in the center, lengthwise; measure up on this fold from the end of the towel which is to be used for the front 22"; mark with a pin, cut on the crease up to the pin for the front opening. To make the opening for the neck, measure up from the same end 17", mark with a pin and cut a line 2" long perpendicular to the crease through both thicknesses of the towel.
On all the cut edges of the towel, fold and baste a hem the same width as the selvages on the outside edges of the towel (do not make a first turning in the hem as the edges of the hem will not ravel after it is blanket stitched and the extra turnings will make it too heavy). Using rope embroidery cotton, which is very coarse and heavy, blanket stitch entirely around the edges of the combing jacket, making the stitches about 1/4" deep and 1/4" apart (Chap. II, Par. 128). Fine stitches and fine thread would not be effective on this rough, heavy material. Turn back the points at the neck far enough to make the jacket set nicely and sew them in place with three or four stitches taken up and down through both the material and the flaps.
This combing jacket is made without any seams and is held together under the arms with ribbon tied in bows. To put on the ribbon, measure up from the bottom of the combing jacket on one edge 9"; mark with a pin; turn in the end of a piece of ribbon about 14" long and 1" wide and hem it to the wrong side of the combing jacket (allow it to overlap the edge about 1/2"). In the same manner sew another piece of ribbon the same length on the opposite edge of the jacket. On the other side of the jacket sew on two ribbons in the same manner.
On the front opening find the place where you desire the jacket to be fastened; sew two ribbons each 1/2 yard long on the opposite edges of this opening in the same manner.