Cambric (Chap. I Par. 6), or
Long Cloth (Chap. I, Par. 24), or
Nainsook (Chap. I, Par. 28).
1 1/2 to 2 yards of material.
Embroidery (1 1/4 times width of the two legs).
Thread 70-90, depending on fineness of material used.
There are some things in a girl's wardrobe that are counted as luxuries and there are others which are absolute necessities. This garment is one of the necessities. Whether they are joined. to a corset cover in a combination suit, or made in one piece as a sort of princess slip, makes no particular difference except in the amount of gathers at the waist line, but they are usually made to conform to the prevailing style in their shape at the bottom.
In the days of full skirts the wide, circular ones are very popular, while in the days of tight skirts they are narrowed down and even fastened into a band of some sort at the knees to make them fit closely. The material used, as in other garments, will depend on whether they are to be worn daily or occasionally. For service, long cloth or cambric is generally used; the softer nainsook or linen may be used for the finer ones.
The garment in this lesson is made along standard lines. Some of the details will have to be decided upon by the wearer, as each girl will probably have ideas of her own which can be easily introduced. Embroidery trimming may be used (to match the embroidery on the under skirt) for the bottom of the legs, or they may be finished with a ruffle made of the goods, of lawn, or of barred muslin tucked and trimmed with lace and insertion; lace is often sewed on the bottom for trimming.
The Complete Dressmaker, C. E. Laughlin. Hints on Dress, E. C. Gale.
No. 1. These drawers are made open. Notice the fitted facing which finishes the inside of the legs. The lace is sewed on the edge of a narrow machine made hem.
No. 2. These drawers are made bloomer style; the fullness at the bottom of the leg is gathered into a band of embroidery beading, which is sewed on with bias tape. The openings on the sides are finished with bound plackets.
No. 3. These drawers which are ready-made, have gathers across the back to make them fit at the waist line. The openings on the inside of the legs are finished with bias tape. The embroidery trimming on the bottom of the drawers is set on with embroidery insertion.
No. 4. These drawers are made of fine material (nainsook); they are finished on the bottom with dainty lace set on the bottom of the legs with insertion provided with eyelets through which narrow ribbon is run.
Shrink the material.
You may use a commercial pattern for these drawers, or draft a pattern according to the directions in Chap. IV. If a commercial pattern is used, study carefully the guide chart and directions accompanying it. If you use a drafted pattern for plain drawers, lay the side edge of the pattern parallel with the warp threads of the material which may be doubled crosswise so that both legs may be cut at the same time. Pin the pattern in place and cut out the drawers.
Each leg should be joined with a felled seam (Chap. II, Par. 138). If the drawers are to be made closed, join the two legs with a felled seam extending from the top of the back to within 10" of the top of the front. Finish the opening at the front with an extension placket (Chap. II, Par. 162). NOTE: Children's drawers are usually gathered onto a band in front and to another band in the back, with an opening 4" to 6" long on one or two sides. These openings are finished with a bound placket, or bias tape.
If the drawers are made open, the edges on each leg should be finished with a fitted facing about 1" wide. This facing is usually joined opposite the seam in the leg, the raw edges of the seam being turned inside. If the drawers are to be opened in the back, they should be lapped in front the width of the facing. If the drawers are to be opened in front, they should be lapped the width of the facing in the back. After they are lapped, stitch them together about 6" from the top in the back, or about 4" in the front.
The top of the drawers may be inserted in the lower edge of the band of the corset cover and made to form a combination suit; or, they may be finished with a straight band. The drawers in the illustration are finished with a bias facing. Cut a bias strip 1" wide and long enough to reach around the waist, sew it on the top edge of the drawers; turn the seam to the wrong side, fold it over to the wrong side; baste along the stitched edge, turn in the opposite raw edge and the ends, baste and stitch in place, or hem by hand.
The bottoms of the drawers in this lesson are finished with an embroidery ruffle. You will notice that this ruffle is gathered and the embroidery is left open at the sides of the legs. To put on the ruffle, cut the embroidery in two equal pieces. On each end, miter the embroidery the same as you would lace, except that it should be joined with a felled seam (Chap. II, Par. 147).
Divide each drawer leg in halves and mark it with a pin; divide each piece of embroidery in halves and mark with a pin. Gather each half and adjust it to the half of each leg. As the embroidery is to be sewed on with a felled seam, place the wrong side of the embroidery on the wrong side of the drawer leg, allowing the edge of the drawer leg to extend about 1/4" beyond the edge of the gathered embroidery. Baste and stitch the embroidery in place, making the mitered ends meet on the side of the drawer leg. (Be sure to stitch through the gathering threads.) Finish sewing on the embroidery with a felled seam (Chap. II, Par. 138).
If the drawers are closed, place three buttons and buttonholes on the placket and one on the end of the facing. If the drawers are made open (open in the back) sew one hook and eye on the end of the bias facing at the back, or use a button and buttonhole if you prefer. If they are made open and are to be fastened in front, sew one hook and eye on the ends of the facing and about three snaps down the edge of the opening.