Mull (dotted) (Chap. I, Par. 26).
1 yard dotted mull, 18" wide.
1 3/4 yard lace insertion 2" wide.
2 1/4 yards lace edging about 2 1/4" wide.
Thread No. 70. Needle No. 8.
While a plain towel will answer for a dresser scarf very satisfactorily, it is quite customary to have a special cover for the purpose. The dresser scarf may be made long enough to hang over the ends of the dresser a few inches, or may be made simply long enough to cover the top; this is a matter of taste.
A dresser scarf gives an opportunity for different kinds of hand-work, and though a very attractive looking scarf may be made by simply embroidering an initial in the center, using nice material for the cover and finishing the edges with plain hems, yet many elaborate designs are made.
As you will notice in the illustration for this lesson, embroidered mull, trimmed with lace and lace insertion along the front and two ends, has been used. This makes a dainty and inexpensive dresser scarf.
Household Decoration, The Cornell Reading-Courses.
Lace Making and Embroidery in the Philippines, U. S. Bureau of Education Bulletin 34.
No. 1. This scarf is made the same size as the one in this lesson. The edges are finished with embroidered scallops. A design at each end is embroidered in white.
No. 2. This dresser scarf is finished with a crocheted edge. The design consists of running stitches worked over a stamped design.
No. 4. This dresser scarf is finished on the edge with linen lace. The design is worked in colors with French knots, lazy daisy, outline and satin stitches.
You may measure your own dresser and make the dresser scarf to fit it. The dresser scarf in this lesson is made 18" wide by 36" long, without the lace. Straighten one end of the material (Chap. II, Par. 102). Leave the selvage for the back and measuring from the selvage out on the short edge 18" (the width of the material for the dresser scarf), draw a thread lengthwise and cut on the line. From the short edge measure down on the selvage 36" (the length), draw a thread crosswise and cut on the line.
The edges on the ends and front are to be finished with a narrow hem. Fold, baste and sew in place with the machine (Chap. II, Par. 164), or hemming stitch (Chap. II, Par. 114). Remove bastings. The edge is to be trimmed with lace, as shown in the illustration. The lace may be sewed in place with the sewing machine, or overhanded on (Chap. II, Par. 112). If it is to be sewed on with the sewing machine, begin with the selvage edge, letting 1/4" of the lace extend for a hem; lay the wrong side of the lace on the right side of the hem, letting it overlap about 1/16 of an inch. Baste with small, even basting (Chap. II, Par. 103), mitering it carefully at each corner (Chap. II, Par. 147); leave 1/4" extending at the other end for finishing. Sew the lace in place with the sewing machine. If the lace is to be over-handed on the dresser scarf, follow directions in Chap. II, Par. 112, mitering the corners as directed above.
As the insertion is to be placed 2" from the outside edge of the hem, make a gauge of cardboard 2" long and 1/2" wide to use as a guide in setting the insertion on evenly. Beginning at the selvage edge and allowing 1/4" of the insertion to extend for finishing, lay it on smoothly, keeping it an even distance from the edge of the hem. (Test with the gauge). Baste the insertion in place, pin along its outside edge; as you turn each corner, fold the insertion for mitering (Chap. II, Par. 147), continuing to pin and baste it even with the front edge until the lace is on entirely around the scarf; leave 1/4" extending beyond the selvage for finishing. Baste it down carefully on the other edge. Stitch in place with the sewing machine, very close to the edge.
Turn the material to the wrong side and cut out the material under the insertion, letting about 3/8" along each edge extend, for finishing. Finish mitering the corners, which you have already folded, and finish the raw edges on the ends of the insertion with a narrow hem, making it even with the selvage at the back of the dresser scarf. On each edge of the insertion, fold the extra material back away from the insertion and turn under the raw edges, forming a narrow hem on the material along each edge of the insertion. Baste, and stitch the edge of the hems in place on the sewing machine (Chap. II, Par. 164) or sew in place with hemming stitches (Chap. II, Par. 114). Remove all basting threads and press carefully.
A mull with large embroidered bowknots in it is made very attractive by working the bowknots with the satin stitch (Chap. II, Par. 131) in a delicate color. It is not advisable to work over the designs in mull unless they are large.