Paragraph 115. Hemstitching is an artistic method of making a hem by drawing a certain number of threads from the body of the material, and catching the remaining threads regularly in the hemming proess. To make the single hemstitch first plan the width of the hem, then from the edge of the material measure up twice the width of the hem plus the first turn and draw a thread. Draw four or five more threads toward the body of the cloth. The number of threads to be drawn depends upon the fineness of the material and the width you desire to have the hemstitching. Fold the hem in place, making the edge of the hem exactly even with the first drawn thread; crease firmly and baste with even basting. Tie a knot in the thread, insert the needle in the hem, near one end, so as to conceal the knot, bring the needle out through the edge of the hem. With the thumb of the left hand hold the thread in a loop, set the needle under three or four threads (depending on the size of the threads). Keep the needle over this loop of thread, then take a hemming stitch into the hem, then with the thumb hold the thread in a loop as before and take the same number of threads as before. See Figure 14. Continue until the hem is completed. The stitches should all be even and should all slant in the same direction.

Fasten the hemstitching by bringing the needle through to the wrong side, sew over the last stitch two or three times.

This stitch is used to finish the hems of napkins, table cloths, handkerchiefs, towels, ruffles on dresses, or, in fact, in any place where a fancy hem is desired.