Neck Measure at Shoulder. Measurement from bone in center back of neck out on the shoulder far enough to make the neck of the gown as low as desired at this point.

Neck Measure at Center Front Measurement from base of neck down the center front the depth desired for neck of gown in front.

Bust. A loose measurement around the body over the fullest part of the bust close under the arms.

Shoulder and Sleeve Measure. Measurement from base of neck along shoulder to bend in elbow, or length desired for sleeve.

Width of Sleeve. Measurement around the arm above the elbow plus 6" or 8" (this depends on the size of sleeve desired).

Length of Nightgown. Measurement from highest point of shoulder to the floor.

Width at the Bottom. Measurement desired (from 2 to 2 1/2 yards.)

Drafting The Pattern

Study carefully accompanying drawing. You are to draft one-half of the front pattern, which will also be used to cut out the back of the nightgown, thus making this pattern one-fourth of the entire gown. For this reason you will use one-fourth of the bust measure and one-fourth of the skirt measure in drafting your pattern.

Draw line AB parallel with the edge of the paper; draw the line AC at right angles to line AB.

To Draft the Neck. Measure out from point A on line AC the neck measure at the shoulder; locate point L; measure down on line AB from point A the neck measure at center front; locate point M; draw an easy curve, as in illustration, connecting points L and M. This neck may be made square by drawing a line from point L parallel with line AB to form a right angle with the line drawn from point M parallel with line AC. A straight slanting line drawn from point L to point M will make a V-shaped neck.

To Draft the Sleeve. On line AC measure out from point L the length of the shoulder and sleeve measure, locating point N; measure down on line AB one-half the width of sleeve measure and draw line OP parallel with and 1" shorter than line AC; connect points P and N with a slanting line. To Draft the Body of the Nightgown. From point A measure down on line AB the length of nightgown and locate point R. From point R draw line RS at right angles to line AB, making it equal one-fourth the width of the bottom measure. On line OP measure out from point O one-fourth the bust measure plus 2" for fullness and locate point Q; draw a slanting line from point Q to point S; from point Q measure down the length of line OR on line OS; locate point T; half way between the points R and S begin to draw the curved line RT for the bottom of the nightgown. Make a curved line at point Q, as shown in the illustration.

Laying The Pattern On The Material

Fold the material lengthwise in the center, then fold it crosswise in the center; pin the center front of the pattern (represented by the line MR) even with the lengthwise fold and the line LN even with the crosswise fold of the material; cut out the back and front of the nightgown at the same time.

Laying The Pattern On The Material 252

Adapting The Kimono Nightgown

Pattern To The Making Of Other Garments

By cutting the kimono nightgown pattern the desired shape at the neck, opening it down the center front and cutting it off the shape desired below the waist line, it may be used as a pattern for a comb-ing jacket.

By opening the kimono nightgown pattern in the front it may be used as a pattern for a kimono. If a yoke is desired in the kimono, cut off the upper part of the pattern the shape desired for the yoke and allow for seams at the bottom edges when cutting out the material. If fullness is desired in the body of the kimono, set the center front of the pattern over from the edge of the material far enough to allow for the fullness. In the center back, do the same, setting the pattern over from the folded edge of the goods the width of a seam if two widths are used to make the back.