Measurements. Length of Arm from Shoulder to Wrist. Measure from end of shoulder to the wrist.

Armhole. Measurement around the arm where it joins the shoulder (an easy measure), about the size of the armhole of the waist.

Shoulder to Elbow. Measurement from the end of the shoulder to the bend in the elbow.

The Hand. With the thumb closed over the palm of the hand, take this measurement around the broadest part of the hand.

Drafting The Sleeve Pattern

Study carefully the accompanying drawing. This pattern is to be drafted on a double fold of the paper; use the folded edge of the paper for line AB; draw line AC at right angles to line AB.

Drafting The Sleeve Pattern 249

To Draft the Top of the Sleeve. For a smooth fitting sleeve, 4" is allowed for the height of the curve for the upper part of the sleeve; this measurement should be increased if the sleeve is made wide enough at the top to be gathered in the armhole of the waist.

Draw the line LM 4" below and parallel with the line AC, making it equal to one-half the armhole measurement, plus 1/2". To locate the point where the under-arm curve should cross this line, measure in from point M one-fifth of the armhole measurement and locate point N. To locate the point where the top curve of the sleeve should begin, measure from point M on line ML two-fifths the length of the armhole measurement and locate point O; erect a perpendicular line to line AC; measure down on this line 3/4" locating point P, which will aid in drawing the under-arm curve the right shape; draw line AM for the top curve and line APNM for the under-arm curve of the sleeve.

To Draft the Remainder of the Sleeve. Locate point S at the bottom of the sleeve by measuring down on line AB the length of the shoulder to wrist measurement. At point S draw a line at right angles to line AB. Draw the line QR parallel with and equal to line AS. To lay out the width of the sleeve at the bottom, measure in 2 1/2" to 3" (depending on fullness desired) from point R on line SR, locating point T. Draw the line MT. To allow for the bending of the elbow, the bottom of the sleeve should be a trifle lower on line AB than at point T; 1/2" from point S on line AB locate point S2; draw a slanting line from point S2 to point T. This forms the bottom of the sleeve which may be gathered into a narrow band to fit the wrist. To shape the sleeve on the seam where the elbow bends in, measure down from point A on line AB the shoulder to elbow measurement; locate point V; from point V draw a line parallel with line AC, locating point W where it crosses line MT; measure in from point W on line VW 1/2", locating point X; draw lines MX and XT. These lines form the under-arm seam on the sleeve.

If the cuff is to be used on the bottom of the sleeve, measure up from point S the width desired for the cuff and draw line YZ parallel to line ST. Measure down 1/2" from point Y and locate point Y2; draw the slanting line Y2Z (a tailored cuff is made 2 1/2" wide, as a rule). The placket opening for tailored cuff may be cut on the line AB.

If this sleeve is to be fitted in at the wrist without a band, or cuff, line ST should be made equal to one-half the hand measurement.

To allow for a seam on the sleeve, draw lines parallel with, and 1/2" outside of lines MX and TX. With the paper folded cut out the pattern on the heavy lines around the top curve, on the under-arm seam and the bottom of the sleeve. Open the pattern to cut out the under-arm curve.

Laying Pattern on the Material. Both sleeves may be cut out at one time by laying corresponding sides of the material together so you will have a sleeve for each arm, instead of two for one arm. Open the pattern and place line AB parallel with the warp thread of the material.

Modification of the Sleeve Pattern. The sleeve may be made full at the top by increasing the length of lines AL and LM. It may be made wider at the bottom by increasing the length of line SR. It may be made any length desired by drawing a line parallel with S2T any length desired on the sleeves. If tucks are desired, either cross-wise or lengthwise of the sleeve, they may be made first, after which the sleeves may be cut out the same as a plain sleeve.