White Cotton Cambric (Chap. I, Par. 6).

Long Cloth (Chap. I, Par. 24).

1 piece white goods 1/3 yard long and 27" wide.

Thread No. 70.

Needle No. 8.

1 yard narrow white elastic.

Introductory Statement

Every girl knows how difficult it is to keep the bottom of long sleeves clean when at work. Sleevelets made of paper and pinned to fit the arm will offer some protection. As they are only temporary and tear easily, they are not very satisfactory.

Sleevelets made of cloth are much more practical. As they usually require frequent laundering, they should be made of wash materials, the color depending somewhat on the use for which they are intended. Black sateen is often used for sleevelets to be worn in an office or store while white cambric or dainty colored gingham, percale or chambray is generally used for sleevelets to be worn in the kitchen, or at work about the house.

While sleevelets may be finished at the bottom in several ways, one of the simplest methods is to gather in the extra fullness with an elastic. The sleevelets shown in this lesson have an elastic band at the top and bottom, making them adjustable to any sized arm. These sleevelets may be used as part of a cooking uniform for school.


A Profitable Cotton Farm, U. S. Bulletin 364. The Cotton Plantation, U. S. Bulletin 326.

Suggestions For Optional Modification

Buttoned Sleevelets

Buttoned Sleevelets

No. 1. Sleevelets are sometimes provided with a button and buttonhole instead of elastic at the bottom; the elastic is frequently used at the top of such sleevelets.

Hemstitched Cuffs

No. 2. Where pretty dainty sleevelets are desired they may be made short and hemstitched. When neatly laundered they are very attractive.

Plain Cuffs

No. 3. Sleevelets are sometimes made perfectly plain; they may then be starched stiff and fastened in place with a pin.

Plain Sleevelets

No. 4. Sleevelets may be made perfectly plain, starched like the cuffs and held in place with a pin.

Workng Directions For Sleevelets

Preparing Material

Straighten two adjoining edges of material (Chap. II, Par. 102) if necessary. Trim off any selvages. Measure out on the shorter edge 12" (the length of the sleevelets before making). Tear crosswise, or draw a thread and cut on the line (Chap. II, Par. 102). Measure out on the long edge 13 1/2" (the width of one sleevelet before it is made) and tear lengthwise or draw a thread and cut on the line. The piece of material left should be 12"xl3", the size of the other sleevelet. Trim off the ravelings on the edges if you have torn the material. Cut out the second sleevelet in the same manner.

Making The Seam On The Sleevelet

One sleevelet may be made and when it is completed the other may be made exactly like it, or the sleevelets may be made together by repeating each process on the second sleevelet after you have finished it on the first. In these directions you are to complete one sleevelet before making the second one. The sleevelet should be made a little narrower at the bottom than at the top. To do this, fold the material lengthwise in the center. On one end which is to be the bottom of the sleevelet, measure in from the raw edge one inch and mark with a pin. From the upper corner at the top of the same edge, fold the cloth diagonally to the pin. Cut on this diagonal fold, making a slanting edge from the bottom to the top of the sleevelets. Baste the slanting edges together using the uneven basting stitch (Chap. II, Par. 104); finish them with a French seam (Chap. II, Par. 137). The bottom of the sleevelet is to be finished with a hem provided with a casing through which to draw the elastic that gathers it at the wrist.

To make this hem, make a first turning about 1/4" toward the wrong side of the sleevelet then make a second turning about 1 1/4" toward the same side; baste with even basting stitches (Chap. II, Par. 103) and sew in place, with machine stitching (Chap. II, Par. 164), or hem neatly by hand, leaving about 1/4" unsewed through which to insert the elastic. To form the casing for the elastic measure down about 3/8" below the sewed edge of the hem and make a row of machine stitching or running stitches (Chap. II, Par. 106) parallel with the edge of the hem. Remove the bastings.

The Hem At The Top Of The Sleevelet

The hem at the top of the sleevelet shown in the illustration serves as a casing through which to run the elastic. Make this hem about 3/8" wide with 1/4" first turning; baste with even basting (Chap. If, Par. 103) and sew in place with the hemming stitch (Chap. II, Par. 114) or stitch with the sewing machine (Chap. II, Par. 164) leaving about 1/4" unsewed (at the seam) in which to insert the elastic.

Putting In The Elastic

As the fullness at the bottom of the sleevelet is to be gathered on an elastic band, cut a piece of elastic one-half inch longer than the wrist measure. With a bodkin, or hair pin, draw the elastic through the casing, letting the two ends extend outside the opening. Overlap the ends and sew them together firmly; slip them inside of the casing in the hem and sew up the opening left in the hem. If you have sewed the hem by hand this small opening may be sewed with the hemming stitch; if you have stitched it on the sewing machine sew it on the right side with backstitches (Chap. II, Par. 107).

As the fullness at the top of the sleevelet is also gathered on an elastic band, cut a second piece of elastic one-half inch longer than the measurement of the arm just below the elbow. Draw it through the casing and fasten it just as you did at the bottom of the sleevelet. Finish the hem in the same manner.

Make the second sleevelet in the same manner that you did the first.

Putting In The Elastic 34