A placket is an opening made in a garment. There are several ways of finishing an opening, but in all cases, except when the gusset is used, the underside should extend some distance under the top to prevent gaping.
A. A Placket with a Continuous Binding.
This is the placket used on children's drawers, night shirts, under garments, etc.
Cut the opening the desired length. Cut the facing with the warp a little more than twice the length of the opening and twice the desired width when finished, plus one-fourth inch, or more, allowed for seams. The following are the successive steps for making the placket: a. Fold the cloth, right sides together, in a line with the opening.
b. Double the facing across the warp, through the center, wrong sides together.
c. Slip this between the folds of the cloth so that the fold of the facing will just come to the end of the opening. This will bring the right side of facing to the right side of the cloth.
d. Baste the facing to the cloth down one side and up the other side of the opening.
e. Stitch with an eighth of an inch seam, which will render unavoidable a small pleat at the end of the opening the width of the seam.
f. Crease the facing back over the opening exactly in the seam.
g. Turn an eighth of an inch fold the length of the facing down the other side.
h. Fold this over the seam to the stitching, baste, and hem.
i. At the top of the opening fold the right-hand facing back and stitch along the edge to hold in place.
To Illustrate Plackets, Nightgown Opening And Bands (Back. View).
B. A Placket with an Extension Hem on One Side and a Flat Facing on the Other.
This is the placket used on dress skirts, petticoats and carefully tailored garments.
Follow the directions for the successive steps for making Placket A through "g," as the two plackets are the same to this point.
The left side of the facing will consist of an extension hem the same as in Placket A, the only difference in the plackets being the manner of finishing the right side or top facing.
h. After turning the fold the length of the facing, place the edge of this fold to the stitching on the other side of the seam, and crease the facing through the center the long way, as in Placket A.
i. As the right side is to be hemmed down as a facing, it is desirable to cut out one thickness of the cloth, leaving, of course, the quarter-inch inside the long crease, and also at the cross fold, at the end of the opening as the first fold on the facing.
j. Baste this facing flat to the cloth, and hem. k. Stitch once across the top facing only, just at the bottom end of the opening.
C. A Finish for a Shirt Sleeve or Nightgown Opening. As this consists of an extra piece which extends over the opening, it is necessary to allow for this in cutting, so that the middle of this piece will come in the center when finished. When cutting this opening in a nightgown, cut to the right of the center one-half the width the facing is to be when finished. The following are the successive steps for making the nightgown opening: a. Cut the opening the desired length. Cut the facing in two pieces, one a little more than twice the length of the opening, and the other the length of the opening plus the width of the facing, both pieces to be the desired width plus the allowance for seams. (These two pieces will be designated the long and the short facings.) b. Place the short facing to the right-hand side of the opening, right sides of cloth together and even at the top. Pin in place.
c. Place the long facing to the back of this same side with the right side of facing to the wrong side of the cloth, thus having the three thicknesses of cloth together. Pin in place and baste a quarter of an inch from the edge. Stitch an eighth of an inch seam.
d. The long facing is a continuous facing, the same as in Plackets A and B. Baste up the other side and stitch, the seam being on the right side of the cloth.
e. Crease both facings open in the seams. Turn in a fold on the other side of the short facing and turn the end to a square point.
f. Turn a fold the length of the long facing so that it matches the width of the short piece.
g. Baste the two facings together and the flat facing to the cloth.
h. Stitch around the short facing and twice across it at the end of the opening. Stitch or hem the under side of the fiat facing.
D. The Gusset.
This method of finishing an opening is sometimes used on drawers and nightshirts instead of Placket A. The following are the successive steps for making the gusset: a. Cut the opening the desired length.
b. Hem both sides with a very narrow hem running to a point at the end of the opening.
c. Cut a piece of cloth one and one-half inches square. On this square fold down one corner three-fourths of an inch on the sides and cut it ofv. Turn a fold one-eighth of an inch all around this piece. Place the corner which is opposite the diagonal cut to the middle of this cut and crease.
Formation Of Gusset.
d. To sew the gusset in, place the apex of the triangle to the end of the opening and overhand on the wrong side to the crease before made.
e. Fold over the remaining part to the wrong side, baste and hem. Stitch along the fold of the gusset to strengthen it.