This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Made on French lining model.
Material 4 yards 36 inches wide, for 36 bust.
Linen, duck, kahki, etc.
Take same measurements as for French lining, measuring over dress waist.
Make center front line 1 and 4, 3 inches to right of cloth, curving slightly between 1 and 2 for lapels, making line 2, 5 and 6 straight from Dot 2, carrying front as many inches below waist line as desired, for the length of coat.
Cut 4 front pieces, as each front is faced with same material.
Trace waist and all other lines as on former draft, matching, pinning and basting very carefully.
Try on, making any alterations before stitching.
All seams, but shoulder and underarm seams, are bound together, these others being bound separately and pressed open.
The front facing is interlined with crinoline or canvas, matched to right side, and all three pieces stitched together on wrong side. Stitch lower edge also, the length to be finished
If lapel is not wished, crease a line 1/2 the distance between Dots 1 and 7 at neck, to depth of armseye measurement or below, and cut on this line. This allows for a shawl or flat collar, which is fitted and cut after shoulder seams are finished.
Turn front facings and lower edge on right side, making perfect corners, and baste in place for two rows of stitching.
Baste side front and side back seams flat, with bound edges facing center front and center back, respectively, and stitch on right side, 1/4 inch from seam.
The fronts are stitched on edge and 1/4 inch in from this stitching, or, the width of the presser-foot apart. Use lock stitch machine for all outside stitching, with great care in keeping the goods smooth, and doing perfect work.
Cut a paper pattern for a collar to fit neck, shaping outside edge as desired, with seam in center of back.
If a shawl, or sailor collar is used, it is stitched in with the facing, an extra under facing being sewed to back neck, and extending to shoulder seams. If double thickness of cloth is used, interline with crinoline. A plain turn-over collar is cut with double thickness of material, and canvas interlining, seamed in the center. It folds on the line with the lapels, the under part of collar being stitched solid 1/4 inch between each stitching.
The bottom of coat is turned under a bias strip of crinoline, bound 1/2 inch from edge, and stitched as far as front facings.
The sleeves are made on the French lining draft, with larger measurements taken over dress sleeve. The underarm seams are bound separately, and pressed, the other seams being bound together, and turned toward underarm seam when joining to body of coat. Face bottom of sleeve and stitch 2 inches from turned edge to correspond with stitching on fronts. Bind armsizes.
Press well over tailor's pad, to keep bust round and well-shaped.
Crease sleeves on double to elbow.
Sew hanger to back neck.
Attach name and date.