Corset Cover Drafted From Shirtwaist 23

Connect 5 and 1 with downward curve (about 1/4 of circle).

Dot 6 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 1, 1/2 the width of front.

Dot 7 in 1 inch above Dot 6.

Connect 5 and 7, the correct shoulder length from Dot 5, which usually extends beyond Dot 7, and should be used for the connecting point.

Dot 8 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 2, 1/2 the width of front.

Dot 9 is extension of line 2 and 8, to equal the difference between bust and width of back measurements, divided by 2, plus 3/4 inch. This 3/4 inch is added to make the underarm seam nearer the back, thus giving a better shaped back.

Connect 7, 6, 8 and 9 as illustrated - 7, 6 and 8 with left curve, 8 and 9 with downward curve going below line and rounding Dot 8.

Dot 10 is a horiontal line to right of Dot 3, same length as line 2 and 9, plus 1 1/2 inches. Connect 9 and 10.

Dot 11 is correct underarm measurement on this line, down from Dot 9.

Dot 12 is extension of last line, 5 inches below Dot 11.

Dot 13 is 4 inches to right of Dot 12.

Connect 11 and 13.

Dot 14 is 5 inches below Dot 11 on line 11 and 13.

Connect 3 and 11 with slight downward curve. This is the waist line to be traced.

To left of Dot 11 on waist line, measure 1/3 its distance and make cross. This indicates the extent of gathering on fronts.

Connect 4 and 14 with parallel curve of 3 and 11.

Dot 15 is 1/2 of shoulder length between Dots 5 and 7.

Dot 16 is length of line 5 and 15 down from Dot 1.

Connect 15 and 16 with parallel curve of 5 and 1 and trace.

Make cross where this curve intersects line 1 and 6, to indicate extent of gathers at neck. Test all the measurements, then cut pattern on heavy lines as illustrated, with no allowance for seams. Write "warp" on line 1 and 4. Also "front" and pupil's name.

Back

Use remainder of paper from front draft for back pattern.

Let longer edge represent the vertical line, which is at the right when drafting. Let top of paper represent the horizontal line extending to left.

Mark right corner A.

Dot 1 is 1/4 inch down from A.

Dot 2 is depth of shoulder (back) down from Dot 1.

Dot 3 is depth of armseye (back) down from Dot 1.

Dot 4 is length of back down from Dot 1.

Dot 5 is 5 inches below Dot 4.

Dot 6 is 1/6 the neck measurement minus 1/6 inch to left of A. Connect 1 and 6.

Dot 7 is a horizontal line to left of Dot 2, 1/2 the width of back.

Connect 6 and 7 the correct shoulder length from Dot 6.

Dot 8 is a horizontal line to left of Dot 3, 1/2 the width of back.

Connect 7 and 8 with curve to right.

Dot 9 is a horizontal line to left of Dot 4, 1/4 the waist measurement.

Connect 8 and 9, the underarm measurement down from Dot 8, which extends usually below Dot 9.

Dot 10 is this extension. Connect 10 and 4 and trace. Make cross in middle of line, for gathers.

Dot 11 is horizontal line to left of Dot 5, the same length as line 7 and 2, or 1/2 the width of back.

Connect 10 and 11.

Dot 12 is 5 inches below Dot 10 on this line.

Connect 12 and 5, straight line.

Dot 13 is 1/2 of line 6 and 7.

Connect 13 and 2, with downward curve.

On line 1 and 5 write "lengthwise fold." Also "back," and pupil's name.

Test all measurements, then cut on heavy lines as illustrated, with no allowance for seams.