This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Material: 3 yards, 36 inches wide. Pongee, taffeta, swiss, muslin, etc.
A front yoke should have no seam on center front, but cut from one piece or one front piece and 2 back portions.
If waist is to be tucked, make tucks before laying paper pattern on cloth. Take a strip of material the length from top of shoulder to waist or hip line, i. e., from Dot 5 to Dot 4, or Dot 3, and work from center front. Tucks should graduate from center of front to shoulders, those nearest shoulders, not stitched below depth of armseye.
After tucks are made, place line 1 and 4 of front pattern on center of fold as explained in preceding waists.
Trace design for insertion, lace, or any mode of ornamentation desired, which can be penciled on paper pattern first.
Tuck back, with tucks running full length, or stitched to depth of back armseye measurement tucks facing center back.
If insertion or design is desired on shoulders also, stitch shoulder seams first.
Finish waist line as in other shirt waists.
A design for sleeve should be made in the center of pattern. This makes center of sleeve, or center of design, 1 inch to right of line A and 3 on paper pattern.
If sleeve extends to, or just below elbow, have design in center of space; or if insertion is set in, or tucks made, stitch with the woof threads, Tucked bands, cuffs or any mode of finishing may be followed for bottom of sleeves.
The neck band and collar complete the making of a waist, and should not be cut down until ready to finish, because of the tendency to fray and stretch out of shape. The depth of neck may be traced when placing paper pattern, making pointed, round, or Dutch.
A high collar may also be used without first attaching band, but should be fitted on the pupil, pinning in place.
Use following draft for high collar: