This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Hooks and eyes are used as a mode of fastening a garment or any article, where buttons and buttonholes or ball and sockets are not desired, or can not be used. They bring two edges together without over-lapping, as tight linings; or are used for laying and fastening one edge over another so it will be flat, as plackets.
Hooks and eyes are manufactured in sizes from 000 to 6, and in colors black, white and gilt. Different varieties and sizes are used for certain parts of a garment, as No. 4 hooks and eyes for belts on skirts, No. 2 for skirt-placket, etc. Hooks are made plain or with a hump, to prevent slipping. Eyes come in round and flat; the round being used for edges and the flat for lapping. To sew on hooks and eyes, match the places where they belong, by holding the two pieces of cloth or edges together and mark, spacing evenly with pins or pencil dots. Hooks are sewed on first in most all cases, and when many are to be used, the thread is carried from one to the other. Use coarse cotton, silk or twist as the textile requires. If cotton thread is used, do not double; if silk, wax. Always sew hooks far enough from the edge so they can not be seen from the outside. One quarter of an inch is a good distance. To sew on hooks, commence at the right and sew to the left, holding the hook in place with the thumb of the left hand, and let the edge of the hook come where the pencil dot or mark is. Commence at lower edge and go thru right hole five times, then the left. Carry the thread to the top of the hook, sewing it thru to the cloth five times, then passing on to the next one in the same manner. To sew on the eyes, hold the center of the eye over the mark made to match the hook, sewing thru each hole five times, and passing to the next one in the same way, for the flat eyes. If the round eyes are to be used, beside sewing thru each hole the five times, fasten each one just below the curve at the top on either side, to make more secure.