This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Use drafted pattern of the 5-gored underskirt, omitting line 5, 11 and 8 on the back gore. For habit or plain back, trace line 4, 6 and 7 on the cloth, Dot 11 on pattern being 10 1/2 inches down from Dot 4 on the habit back line. Connect A, 10 and 7 with slight, downward curve. Use dress skirt lengths, with no deduction for flounce or ruffle.
To make inverted pleat on center back, fold under on habit back line, 5 inches beyond waist line, (Dot 4), and 7 inches at the bottom beyond Dot 7. Bring edge of habit fold to meet a straight line connecting these new points. More or less allowance may be left for pleat if wider or narrower is preferred. Allow when cutting out on cloth 3/4 inch for seams, and 1/4 inch at waist and bottom of skirt. Stitch inverted pleat twice on each side to a point 8 inches below waist.
Finish placket as on underskirt, and have belt 5/8 inch wide when finished, instead of 1 inch as used on underclothes.
Allow 3 inches for hem at bottom of skirt.
Sew No. 4 hook on right end of belt, 1/4 inch in, and the round eye, which is stronger than the straight, on left end, far enough from edge to hide the underlap. Use No. 2 hump hooks and eyes for placket, placing hooks 1/4 inch from edge, and 1 1/4 inches apart. Use straight eyes on placket. Sew hooks on first and match space for eyes with pins or pencil dots. An unevenly matched placket can spoil an otherwise perfect skirt, so great care should be taken on this part.
Two small hangers are sewed on lower edge of belt. To find their positions, match middle of back to middle of front, and put a pin where each side of fold comes. This is the center of loop. Fasten ends securely.
Finish all ends and threads. Place on skirt board, with top of skirt at smaller end, and press well on the right side. Do not bear too heavily on seams or they will shine, in such case, press on wrong side.
Attach name and date and hang up by loops.