This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Size 4 by 4 inches.
Find right side of cashmere.
The right and wrong sides of cloth are sometimes difficult to distinguish. The right side has a finish and often a luster or a nap, while the wrong side shows imperfections in the weave or loose ends and joins.
Except when goods is less than 28 inches wide, it is generally folded on the double and creased in the center before it leaves the manufacturer. On cotton goods, the outside is usually the right side, while on woolens and heavy materials, also cloths with a luster like satin, the right is found on the inside.
To thread a cashmere warp thread in a No. 9 needle, take a short length of No. 90 or 100 cotton thread, draw the two ends together thru the eye of the needle, leaving a loop in which to slip the cashmere thread. Pull all thru the eye at once.
Make a three-cornered cut to be darned by folding the sampler on the warp, in the center, and cutting down from the center on the bias or diagonal, 1 inch. Baste a piece of paper on the wrong side of sampler to hold the goods in shape, and starting on the right side, at the right end, darn the cut, making the stitches at right angles to the direction of the slit. Take tiny stitches, keeping the edges together. Turn the angle at top by graduating the stitches until they are vertical with the top of the cut.
On the upper left side of sampler make a vertical cut 1 1/2 inches long. Use the cashmere thread in the same way as before in darning, then cut a horizontal line 1 1/2 inches to right of the vertical cut and darn.
Overcast all around the outside edge of sampler with the cashmere thread.
Remove paper and press well by placing a damp cloth over the cashmere and ironing until dry on the wrong side. Write name and date finished on a small piece of paper and baste on sampler, in the triangular space that has been darned.