This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Take half sheet of drafting paper, fold on length, so the dimensions equal about 26 by 12 inches. Have fold at left side while drafting. Mark top at left corner A.
Dot 1 is 1 inch below A. (This point regulates the fulness), which may be increased or decreased, according to prevailing style.
Dot 2 is shoulder to elbow measurement down from Dot 1.
Dot 3 is elbow to hand measurement down from Dot 2.
Dot 4 is inside seam to elbow measurement up from Dot 2.
Dot 5 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 4, 1/2 the armseye measurement plus 1/2 inch or as many more as desired for fuller sleeve, which is subject to change according to fashion, but never less than half the armseye measurement.
Dot 6 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 2, 1/2 the elbow measurement plus 1/2 inch or more if more fulness is desired, but never less than half the elbow measurement.
Dot 7 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 3, 1/2 the wrist measurement plus 1/2 inch, or 1/2 the hand measurement if more fulness is desired. Do not measure less than half the wrist.
Connect 5, 6 and 7.
Dot 8 is a horizontal line to right of Dot 1,
1/3 the armseye measurement or more if puff is desired. The longer the line, the more fulness at top of sleeve, but the proportion should be governed by line 1 and A to make a good curve.
Connect A, 8 and 5, with upward curve.
Connect A and 5 with straight line, divide in halves and Dot 9.
Connect A and 9 with an upward curve, and 9 and 5 with downward curve as illustrated.
Measure on line 5 and 7, the inside seam to elbow measurement down from Dot 5.
Dot 10 is this point.
Measure on line 5 and 7, the inside seam to hand measurement down from Dot 5.
Dot 11 is this point.
Connect 2 and 10 with slight downward curve.
Connect 3 and 11 with slight downward curve.
Make one notch on Dot 10, two notches on Dot 9 for back of sleeve, and one notch one inch above Dot 5 for front. These last two notches indicate space to be gathered. One inch to right of A, make a notch showing where the sleeve joins the shoulder seam of gown.
Cut pattern with lines 1, 8 and 5 on the double, as also 5, 6, 10 and 3, then unfold and cut 1/2 the pattern at top, on line A, 9 and 5, as illustrated. Lay open pattern on double thickness of cloth, with either right or wrong sides facing each other, and line A and 3 on warp thread.
Trace around edges, allowing 1/4 inch at top and bottom of sleeves and 3/4 inch on seams when cutting.
Cut small notches as indicated on paper pattern. Match seams at elbow, pinning and basting on right side for French seams. See that both sleeves are not for the same arm before stitching. Line A, 8 and 5 faces front. Reverse seam on one sleeve if mistake is made.
Gather tops of each between notches 8 and 9, with 2 rows, 1/4 inch apart - the first on traced line, the second below. Gather around the bottom of sleeves.
Pin seam of sleeve to notch made on front body of gown on depth of armseye measurement (Dot 8), easing as much as possible to gown on the underarm part. Match notch at top of sleeve to shoulder seam. Do not make French seams, but stitch on wrong side and bind.
To give proper amount of ease to sleeve on underarm, turn on wrong side with sleeve portion on top, rolling both edges over first finger of left hand where sleeve has no gathers. Baste very closely before stitching and binding. See that sleeve seams turn toward underarm, and all other seams toward the back.
Cut bias binding 1 inch wide and hold on underside when stitching, making join on underarm seam.
Turn remaining edge of binding over these raw edges, covering seam and hemming by hand or stitching on edge. Always place gathered side on top when stitching, to avoid wrong grouping of gathers.
Finish bottom of sleeve with straight band, cut 1 inch wide on double (allowing for seams) and large enough to slip over hand easily.
Join each band before attaching to sleeve, then sew on, as before explained. Have gathers fullest where the strain of elbow comes. To stitch band on right side, turn sleeve wrong side out and stitch with right side nearest presser foot. Have band seam and underseam match. A lace edge may be added to bottom of band, or if embroidery is used, slit the lower edge and insert. Sew on hanger at back neck.
Finish all edges neatly, cut loose threads, take out bastes, and press on skirt board. Use damp sponge or cloth to take out wrinkles. Attach name and date.