M. H. Warren.

The ice-chest here described was made for a summer camp. Ice had to be carried three miles in a boat, and without ice the provisions spoiled. A box sunk in the ground had previously been used, but as it was wasteful of ice and not very handy, something better was needed. This chest proved to be quite as efficient as a purchased one, costing but little, and quite easy to make. Here is a description of how I made it:

The materials used were two shoe cases and a packing case, a sheet of zinc 24" x 36", hinges, handles, screws and nails. The lining was chopped cork, used for shipping Malaga grapes, a kegful being purchased of a fruit dealer for ten cents. If it cannot be obtained, sawdust may be used, but it is not quite as good. The edges of the boards should be matched, to make joints as tight as possible and well driven together before nailing. The shoe cases were carefully taken apart and used to make the outside of the chest.

An Easily Made Ice Chest 218

The packing case, used for the inside walls, was in such good condition that no changes were made in it, thus saving some work. It measured, inside, 251/2|" long, 141/2" wide and 18" deep, but any other size may be used. Around the bottom, sides and ends were nailed strips of wood 2" wide and 1" thick to form a space for the cork lining. The pieces for three edges were put on first, the bottom boards then nailed on ; the cork, put in and the fourth strip then put on, nailing it through the bottom board. The cork should be firmly rammed down with a stick, so that it cannot settle and leave a vacant space. The bottom being finished, the ends and then the sides are made in the same way. The illustration clearly shows the construction. The top pieces forming the cork spaces are not nailed until the cork has been packed. The side pieces of the outside sheathing lap the ends, and should not be sawed until the correct length can be ascertained, after making the ends. The top of the chest was finished by strips mitered at the corners as shown, giving the chest a finished appearance.

The cover was made of well-matched pieces from one of the shoe cases, the top layer running lengthwise, and a lower layer, which loosely fitted the top of the chest, running crosswise. By taking measurements and marking the underside of the top pieces, the location of the lower layer can be determined without difficulty, and then the two parts are well nailed together with short nails. Around the front of the cover and the two ends, a strip 11/2" wide and 1/2" thick was nailed, thus preventing any chance for air to circulate around the joints between cover and chest. The top layer of cover should be a trifle larger than the chest, so that these strips will not bind anywhere. The two hinges at the back are well sunk into the wood to make a tight joint when closed.

The legs were pieces of wood 2" square and 6" long. Around the outsides of the tops were nailed short pieces of board which were nailed to the bottom of the chest. A piece of zinc 24" x 36" was used for lining the bottom and about 5" up on the sides and ends. The inside of the chest was carefully measured, and the dimensions marked on the center of the piece of zinc, the lines being extended to each edge. The corners were then cut off with metal shears, the pieces cut off being saved to be used as will be mentioned. The sides were then bent up, so that a shallow box was formed, considerable careful hammering being needed to get square edges. The corner joints were then carefully soldered. A plumber would probably make the box lining for a small sum if any one did not care to do this part of the work. The drip-pipe was made of one of the corner pieces cut from the sheet of zinc. It was bent around a piece of broom-handle and then cut so that the edges just met, the edges being trued up with a file. It was then fastened to the broom-handle with tacks at each end, so that the joint would be held firm when soldering. This formed a piece of zinc pipe about 5" long and 1" in diameter. A slight flange is made to one end with pincers, so that it may be soldered to the lining.

A 1" hole was bored in one corner of the bottom of the chest. The bit was put through until the screw-point projected through the bottom, then withdrawn, the zinc tube inserted, and the hole finished by boring from the underside, the zinc tube being pushed through as the bit was