S. Voices.

To make this piece of furniture get the following material, all whitewood:

2 boards 1 3" wide 7'long and 7/8" thick. 2 " V " 8' 3! » " 7/8." at 8

2 " 10" " 8' " " 7/8"I"

16 " 6" " 7' " " 1/2" the latter being matched for sheathing the back. Also 88' of 7/8" molding and 8' of 3" molding for cornice.

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Fig. 1.

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Fig. 2.

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Take the boards 1' 3" wide and cut them as •shown in B, Fig. 2. To do this and so as to get them both alike, I screwed them together with a screw at top and bottom, planed the edges, marked the places for the saw-cuts, and cut out the mortises before taking the boards apart. Then take the 12" boards and cut strips 3" wide the whole length. Cut these strips into lengths of 3' 6", making four of them. Cut 3' 6" off one end of the remaining board (now 9" wide), and cut two strips 2|" wide, leaving 4" strips. Plane up the edges of three of the 3" strips, the 4" one, and two 3" short strips 8" long. Then fit them all in their places, which can easily be determined by referring to A, Fig. 2. The 4" piece is fitted V 2" from the top, and forms a rail for clothes-hooks, and is continued on the sides to form ledges for shelf to rest on. The two 21/2|" pieces are used in the back. At this stage be sure to get everything square, or you will have trouble later on. Now put in ledges for the drawer to run on, and the wardrobe will look like A, Fig. 2.

You can now put in the floor, which is cut from the 1/2 match board, and should be put in so as just to clear the top of the drawer. The shelf can then be fitted, and top and back nailed on ; all of which are of the 1/2" match boards. Take the remainder of the 12" board and cut two pieces 81/2" wide by 5' 10" long, and fit them to the front to form the doorway (G, Fig. 1). The best way to do this is to cut them about 8§" in width and nail them in place, using small-headed wire nails for this purpose. Leave an opening for the door 2' 1" in width, and what projects over the sides can easily be planed off when finishing up the work, making a smooth joint.

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Fig. 3.

The drawer is now to be made. It is 3' long, I' 3" wide and 8" in depth outside. For the front, take a piece 3' 1/2" long by 81/2" wide, which has to be rabbeted 1/4" on the top inside edge to the depth of 7/16", bottom edge 7/8", and ends 1/8", all to the same depth. (See Fig. 3.) Then take the two side pieces 1' 3" by 8" and rabbet the inside bottom edges to take the bottom board, and rabbet the back ends to take the back board (Fig. 3), which like the bottom of the frame, is 1/2" match boards. The drawer should be put together temporarily, and fitted so as to slide easily before being glued up. When correctly fitted, glue and nail together.

To make the door, saw two strips 4" wide by 6' long, two 4" x 2' 2" and one 8" x 2' 2"; rabbet the two long strips, one 4" short strip and the 8" short strip on one edge, and the other short strip on both edges, 1/2" wide and 7/16 " in depth. Mark the long strips slightly longer than the length you want your door to be, and the short strips slightly longer than the width of your door, so as to allow for fitting, then mark and cut your tenons and mortises as in Fig. 4, which is drawn to scale.

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Fig. 4.

The best way to cut your mortises is to mark them and then bore them out with a brace and bit, boring half way through from each side, so as to get them quite square and true. To mark the cross-pieces, I centered them and marked 9" each side of the center line. This gave me my inside measurement for mirror. Now glue up your door and fit and hang it. Then fit cornice and molding on front and sides, as shown in Fig. 1.

F is the pattern of a small molding which will give a very neat and finished appearance, but any similar pattern may be used. Now fit your mirror 8' 4" x 1' 6", put in wood or glass panel at top of door, fit your locks and handles, and the wardrobe is ready for staining. I stained mine walnut, for which take burnt umber - 1/2 pound will be plenty; thin it down considerably with turps. Try it on a piece of the waste wood till you get the proper color. The stain can be put on with a brush and rubbed off again with a rag, or it can even be put on with a rag. If properly done it makes a very pretty stain, only be sure to get it thin enough. The nail-holes have now to be puttied up with putty stained with burnt umber, to the same color as the wood. Then give two coats of varnish, and the work is finished.