John F. Adams.

The hall-clock here described is of very striking appearance, and valuable where a strong decorative effect is desired. It is easily made, and will undoubtedly be the subject upon which many readers of this magazine will devote their leisure time during the long winter evenings. This description is limited to the construction of the frame-work and dial, the works to be purchased. At another time the description will be given of the construction of the works of a wooden clock, suitable for this frame.

The wood for this clock should be selected oak. The four corner-pieces, A, are 6' 6" long and 21/8" square. The top ends should have a 7/8" bevel, as shown in the drawings. The crosspieces B and C are 21/4|" wide and 1 3/4" thick. The crosspiece D is 2 1/2" wide, and E is 2 3/4" wide, and both are 7/8" thick. The uprights, A, are 14" apart, which requires the crosspieces to be 16" long, thus allowing 1" on each end for the tenons that fit the mortises in the uprights, A. The crosspiece B is 37/8" below the tops of A ; C is 14" below B ; D is 28§" below C, and E is 19" below D. These pieces, as well as the crosspieces on the sides, are carefully jointed to A by mortise and tenon joints, the mortises for each crosspiece being centered in A. The front is entirely open, except where the dial is. The back is the same as the front, excepting that the cross-piece D is omitted; and between C and E are fitted four pieces, 1 1/4" wide and 7/8" thick, the space between A and the nearest piece being 2 1/2", and 13/8" between each piece. Allowing 5/8" for tenons on each end of these pieces, they should be 511/2" long. The open space on the back between B and C allows the clock movement to be easily inspected at any time.

The sides have two crosspieces, F and G, only, both being 21/4" wide and1 3/4" thick; and allowing 1" on each end for tenon, are 12" long, this making the uprights, A, 10" apart. Three pieces, 1 1/4" square and 67 1/2" long, allowing 4" for tenon on each end, are fitted to mortises in these cross-pieces. The outside ones are 17/8|" from the uprights, A, and 1 1/4" apart. Two pieces of board, II, 184/' long, 6" wide and 7/8" thick, are cut to the shape shown in the drawing and screwed to the cross-pieces B and C on the front. The dial is fastened to the front edges. They should be placed so as to properly receive the works, which are supported by cross-shelves, the dimensions of which are determined after the works are purchased. Holes will have to be cut in the bottom shelf, to allow the pendulum to swing and the chains for the weights to run through. No difficulty will be experienced in arranging this, if measurements are accurately made. A piece of thin board should be fitted to cover the back of the works, to keep out the dust. The blocks on the bottom of the uprights, A, are 31/2" square and 7/8" thick, and fastened to the uprights by wooden pins, glued in. Wooden skewers, used by butchers to dress meat, will answer nicely, four holes being bored in each block, and the upright to receive the pins. Holes for casters may also be bored, and casters fitted when desired, but the clock stands firmer without.

Old Dutch Furniture II Hall Clock 33Old Dutch Furniture II Hall Clock 34Old Dutch Furniture II Hall Clock 35

The dial consists of a carefully selected circular piece of oak, 14" in diameter and 1/4" thick. The figures may be of metal or wood; preferably the latter, using a fret-saw to make them. If of metal, get the fancy-shaped figure used in numbering street doors. Black iron figures can also be used, in which case the dial should be of white oak, and not stained. If wooden figures are used, they should be of very light wood, and glued to the dial after the latter has been stained. The outline of the figures should be marked on the dial before staining, and no stain applied to such places, as it would prevent the glue from holding strongly. To get the figures evenly placed, scribe a circle on the dial with dividers, cutting the bottom edge of 12 and the top edge of 6.

The frame and dial are finished in dark brown or green stain, as preferred, and wax-polished. A bright polish should be avoided, as it is not in harmony with this design. Care should be used in attaching the .works that they are level, so as to get an even swing of the pendulum. The pendulum-rod should be stained to match the frame. If the rod is polished metal, a coat of light brown paint should be given it. The stain can then be applied, and the grain effect of wood secured. Careful attention to these directions will enable any one of ordinary skill to construct this very useful, as well as unique, piece of furniture.